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Old 09-06-2011, 09:59 AM   #1
FScholle
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Jul 2011
Apex, North Carolina
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Hi everyone,

I'm planning to set up a small BIAB brewery in my garage. In a nutshell this is what I'm thinking about:

Install a 240 VAC circuit ( I have a couple of empty slots in the subpanel in my garage).
Run that into the ubiquitously mentioned HD 50 buck spa panel.

I accidentally bought one of the cheap ebay aquarium controllers that's rated for 220 V. To not let that go to waste wire that in for temp control and then run from there to the water heater element.

I don't think I have seen use of the temp controller for the water heat element but I can't see why it would not work. Alternatively I would use an infinite switch for manual temp control on the element.

I would be grateful for any suggestions especially stuff I might run into with the electric side of things. I have generally no problems with household electic wiring but I'm not super experienced and definitely not an electronics guy.

Thanks,

Frank

 
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Old 09-06-2011, 03:18 PM   #2
FScholle
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Jul 2011
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OK, the temp controller is not going to work for this, so I guess infinite switch it is.

 
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:18 PM   #3
phoenixs4r
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Jun 2011
Hayward, California
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I was thinking of using one of those 220vac eBay controllers as well. Care to explain why it wont work? I'm still new tto the concept of electric brewing.

 
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:51 PM   #4
FScholle
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Jul 2011
Apex, North Carolina
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Unless I don't really understand the specs it's only rated for 5A and a 4500W element will pull about 19A.

 
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:59 PM   #5
P-J
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Mar 2010
Charlotte, NC
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If your plan is to go BIAB all electric - I suggest that you use the PID SYL-2352 from Auber Instruments and their SSR to control your brewery. There are lots of wiring plans on this forum on how to do it. (I know - I drew them.)

P-J

 
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:27 PM   #6
Maxkling
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Oct 2010
Atlanta, Georgia
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Well your temperature controller could work if you used it to energize a contactor that was rated for your amperage of the elements. Its not the best way to keep an accurate temperature though. You will have to have a large deviation to keep the contactor from constantly cycling every few seconds (if it cycled that often it would be loud, the contacts wouldn't hold up, and large increase in transient voltage from the coil).
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Old 09-07-2011, 12:30 AM   #7
FScholle
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Jul 2011
Apex, North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-J
If your plan is to go BIAB all electric - I suggest that you use the PID SYL-2352 from Auber Instruments and their SSR to control your brewery. There are lots of wiring plans on this forum on how to do it. (I know - I drew them.)

P-J
Yes I saw quite a few posts about that. I was hoping to keep costs down though. With all the stuff for heater elements, fittings, breakers etc it's already going to add up to quite a bit, so I was hoping to do it less expensively. I really don't mind manually controlling things. Maybe a PWM control would be a good alternative?

F

 
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Old 09-07-2011, 12:49 AM   #8
phoenixs4r
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Jun 2011
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I'm in the same boat, trying to do electric on a budget. There's no voltage adjustment knob we can use to control the amount of heat from the element?

 
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Old 09-07-2011, 12:59 AM   #9
FScholle
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Jul 2011
Apex, North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenixs4r
I'm in the same boat, trying to do electric on a budget. There's no voltage adjustment knob we can use to control the amount of heat from the element?
From what I have seen here on the forums the PWM route might be the cheapest.....but I might have to learn how to solder......yyyrrrrch!!!!!

 
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Old 09-07-2011, 05:05 PM   #10
phoenixs4r
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Jun 2011
Hayward, California
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So a plain Jane rheostat is out of the question? Sorry if I'm just being a dumb noob, I just figured it would be the cheapest, simplest option.

 
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