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Old 09-16-2011, 01:25 AM   #11
rsklhm10
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Jan 2011
Saint Augustine, Fl
Posts: 180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joenads View Post
What I am hoping for, when recirculating the wort, the T will actually be oriented vertically and the wort will flow down vice upand over...I was wondering if that would require some tweaking and/or another valve. I figured I could cut the cost first and try it out. If it doesn't work the way I hoped (most cases it doesn't...) I'll grab up another valve.
That may work, only one way to find out... Worst case scenario is you have to spend another $15. I probably would try the same thing if I had thought of that. On a side note, I noticed your from Summerville. I lived on James Island until Hugo and then lived in Irongate for almost 8 years.


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Primary: "Lake Night ESB," "Esquire IPA"
Secondary: Oatmeal Porter, Pumpkin Ale
Kegged: Centennial Blonde, "Turn-Two" Brew

My E-build:http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/ano...-build-267579/

 
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Old 09-16-2011, 01:42 AM   #12
joenads
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Aug 2011
summerville, sc
Posts: 122
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You ever make it back up this way? I've only been here for about 3 yrs now and in that time, there have been 3 amazing micro brews that have opened up. Coast, Westbrook, and Holy City, check em out.



 
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Old 09-16-2011, 03:30 PM   #13
audger
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Apr 2011
., Connecticut
Posts: 1,497
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Originally Posted by joenads View Post
This sounds a little dissapointing...especially after how much of a PITA is was tearing that fridge apart. Question though, I'm not looking for serving temps, I figured it should be enough to get a space large enough for 2 kegs and a carboy cool enough for Ales to ferment no? Isn't the upper 60's cool enough for that?
i had that same feeling when i was testing out what i had put together

one thing that i was doing, though, was using it to chill a water bath (large thermal mass). if you are using it to chill air and a few kegs (much less thermal mass), and insulated the living hell out of it, the results might be slightly better. i was expecting it to be able to chill 5-10 gallons of a water bath, plus 10-20 gallons (2-4 kegs) down to any reasonable temperature, which it just would not do. the thing was running 24/7 for literally 2 weeks (i had to put a box fan on the hot-side and compressor so they wouldnt burn out) and would not get more than 15-20 degrees below ambient. i didnt expect it to be able to get 10 gallons of 80 degree beer to serving temp in an hour, but i expected it to be able to eventually reach the desired temp, but i was still disappointed.

a $20 craigs' list 6300BTU (380 watt) air conditioner is what i have been using, and it will get 30 gallons from 60* to 35* in only a few hours. "overkill" here shouldnt matter too much as long as your insulation is good, as it will just kick on less often.

 
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Old 09-16-2011, 05:20 PM   #14
joenads
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Aug 2011
summerville, sc
Posts: 122
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Alright, that's good to know. I am going to try it out since I have it, but now I know what I can do when/if it doesn't work.

 
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Old 10-14-2011, 12:39 PM   #15
joenads
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Aug 2011
summerville, sc
Posts: 122
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Well, it's been a while, but I'm still "chugging" ahead. Got my ferm chamber/stand all built and had 2 gallons of water holding steady at 8 degrees C. Had to swap out the transformer in my controller (didn't realize there were ones for 220 and 110...). Solder a small fan into the out put of the transformer so now I have a fan on all the time.

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Just a teaser with my 95% done keggles. It's a bit taller than most rigs, so I'll probably just build a stool so I can have a better view inside the keggles



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Compressor and coils from the fridge I tore apart.



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The door way, tight fit for a keg, not sure if I can get one in thru the door with the sanke ferm kit on it. I staggered 2 layers of insulation and added weather striping.



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Just the inside.


more pics to come...



Edite: Oops, wasn't ready to put the last pic on (damn phone posting), but thats the bitch of a thin walled stainless herms coil. I kinked it pretty good at the top there...water from the hose passes thru no problem, but I don't have my pumps yet to test it out. Gonna wait and try it out before I see if I need to take the coil out and cut that piece...
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Old 10-14-2011, 12:46 PM   #16
Hoppopotomus
Cedar Hollow Brewing
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Nov 2010
Ortonville/Oxford, Michigan
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Nice work so far.....keep the pics. a comin'! Subscribed!

 
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:55 PM   #17
Brian_T
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Feb 2011
ABQ, NM
Posts: 9

Nice build so far! I recently build an E-HERMS system similar to yours, but as a lazy lurker I have not posted a thread about it. Keep up the good work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by joenads View Post


more pics to come...

Edite: Oops, wasn't ready to put the last pic on (damn phone posting), but thats the bitch of a thin walled stainless herms coil. I kinked it pretty good at the top there...water from the hose passes thru no problem, but I don't have my pumps yet to test it out. Gonna wait and try it out before I see if I need to take the coil out and cut that piece...
I had the exact same issue when I formed my coil, and was worried about the kinks catching particles in the wort and clogging the system. I gave up on SS and rebuilt the coil using 1/2" copper, which turned out almost perfect. Copper is a reasonably important yeast nutrient so I considered its use in my "all SS" system beneficial. For more info on copper check out the Brew Strong on metals in brewing.

 
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Old 10-29-2011, 03:06 PM   #18
Hoppopotomus
Cedar Hollow Brewing
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Ortonville/Oxford, Michigan
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Brian_T.....start a thread, so I can steal your ideas! Seriously, if you have built one, I would love to see your process and final product. The more builds I can see, the better prepared I will be as I begin mine. Keep up the good work joenads.

 
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Old 11-10-2011, 02:11 AM   #19
joenads
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Aug 2011
summerville, sc
Posts: 122
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I'm still here! Here's proof:
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Old 11-10-2011, 12:36 PM   #20
unclephilly
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Apr 2010
Akron, OH
Posts: 81
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YaY! More pics and keep going man! You're doing great! I'm envious!



 
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