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Old 08-31-2011, 08:16 PM   #21
unionrdr
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You boil 2.5 gallons in the brew kettle. If your using,say 3lbs of DME with an LME can,then add half the DME to the boil,mix it in good. Then add your hops at,say the last 20 minutes,then 10 minutes,for example. Then take it off the heat,& add the rest of the malts,stirring to completely incorporate. Then chill kettle in an ice water bath to get it down to pitch temp.
Then pour it into the fermenter & top off with the right amount of water.


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Old 08-31-2011, 08:36 PM   #22
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OP: taking the receipe you linked to. Here is the 'cooking'/'brewing' part I assume you can keep everything sanatized. Everything that touches your malt mixture - called wort - after you start cooling your wort until you drink it should be sanatized as you go.

Ingredients
3-4 lb. Pale malt extract syrup, unhopped
2 lb. Amber dry malt extract
12 AAU of bittering hops (any variety) For example, 1 oz. of 12% AA Nugget, or 1.5 oz. of 8% AA Perle
5 AAU of finishing hops (Cascade or other) For example, 1 oz. of 5% Cascade or 1.25 oz. of 4% Liberty
2 packets of dried ale yeast

This is what I do - I get out my 4 gal - about 15L pot, fill it to about 1/2 full. Heat it until boiling, take it off the heat - electric stove - not induction, radiative coil. Add the can of malt (3-4 lb. most likely 3.3 lb. Alternative use 3lb of dry malt if liquid not available). Add bittering hops and boil about 1 hour.
At 55 mins in the boil/5 mins from end, take off heat put in Dry malt (2lb Amber) and the finishing hops.

at 60 mins take off and cool in an ice bath. (tub, sink wherever) I usually have to swap water and some times stir with a sanatized spoon - you need a instant sanatizer. I know in wine you use a lot of meta bisufate or whatever, but here either idaphor or star san should be used.

At about 90F (~30 C?) pour into my sanatized fermentor, and top off with water to 5 gallons, Hopefully in Sweden, your top off water will be colder than 70F/21C. This will further depress the temp of your wort. You want to pitch yeast at about 68F/20C.

After toping off is done, stir it well to mix the wort and water. The denser wort will sink and the water will float on it. After 2 or 3 days with yeast, it will have mixed just fine, but it makes it hard to get an accurate OG without stirring it well first. Also this helps aerate the wort. If you have a degassing whip for a drill for wine making, it could be used here provided you don't cause an overflow of the wort by getting it spinning so fast it climbs over the sides.

The rest of the instructions on link should get you through making this. Palmer proofs his yeast - while not strickly needed, it often helps, making a starter often helps more. Don't worry about it if you are pitching more than 11g of dry beer yeast, that is general enough to at least make the beer. Better beers can be made by pitching the right amount of yeast. He also warns about the boil over - if this threatens, it is usually with in a few minutes after you've added malt. Just take the pot off the stove till the foam dies down and put it back on. Stiring helps, but with Dry malt, taking off for a few minutes is the only solution I've found (or a much bigger pot)

Good luck



 
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Old 08-31-2011, 08:51 PM   #23
unionrdr
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DME doesn't give me more than 3/4 inch or so of foam. Steeping grains go nuts with foamy hot break. 6 pounds of malt is ok. 90F (32.5C) is a bit too hot to pitch yeast. It should be down to 70 ish (21C)for the average ale to avoid off flavors. 6 lbs of malt won't require 22g of ale yeast. That'll give an OG in the 1.04x range. That'd be over pitching.
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Old 08-31-2011, 09:46 PM   #24
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Thanks, AC, that helps a LOT!

I'm familiar with sanitization and I have a few products - Star San, as mentioned, ChemiPRO Oxi or something like that, an oxidizer anyway, and finally good old household bleach.

Hm, yes, I think I can pull it off. Well, in a day or two when I'm solvent and can get the necessary ingredients.

 
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:57 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unionrdr View Post
DME doesn't give me more than 3/4 inch or so of foam. Steeping grains go nuts with foamy hot break. 6 pounds of malt is ok. 90F (32.5C) is a bit too hot to pitch yeast. It should be down to 70 ish (21C)for the average ale to avoid off flavors. 6 lbs of malt won't require 22g of ale yeast. That'll give an OG in the 1.04x range. That'd be over pitching.
Thanks! Since I almost always do steeping grains, this explains some of my foaminess.

And I didn't mean to imply pitching yeast at 90F/32.5C while most yeast would live, it would create an undesireable flavors. I only ment that when it was in that temp range it could be put in the fermentor. If you have about 2.5 gal at 90F and combine it with water at 50F you should get something around 70F/21C which would be pitchable. - I've gone as high as 75 to 80 on pitches, which can create off flavors.
And yes using 2 packs of 11g yeast would be to much. I think yeast used to be sold more in the 5g pack size which would make more sense for when Palmer wrote the book.

 
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Old 09-01-2011, 04:23 PM   #26
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Could be,the cooper's ale yeast in the 7g size is the smallest I've seen nowadays. I remember buying brewer's yeast back in the 70's that were something like 10g or so.
I just like to get starters/re-hydration water close to pitch temps,just to be sure myself. To me,it seems to be better for the yeasties. I get a nice krausen by pitch time.
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Old 09-02-2011, 03:38 PM   #27
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By the way, I've ordered the necessary ingredients, should have them by Monday. I'll put progress updates in this thread.

 
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:12 PM   #28
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My wort is cooling in the bath tub right now! Brewing went great... well, minus one little thing, ehm...


You know how when materials get hot, they expand? And with an uneven heat distribution, the expansion will be uneven? And how this can cause hard and brittle things to break?

Well, apply the above to boiled-for-sterilization water, siphoned into a glass carboy. Yeah... I do amazingly stupid things sometimes. Now the carboy will have to make a garden decoration instead.

 
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:26 PM   #29
unionrdr
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Aaw man,it blew the bottom out?
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:32 PM   #30
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Yeah man use star stan to sanitize carboys...


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