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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Kegerators and Keezers > Keezer build with questions!
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Old 08-28-2011, 03:43 PM   #1
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Default Keezer build with questions!

First I would like to say hello to everyone, this is my first post here and hope to have many more! Basically what I am doing is converting a Danby freezer, I think its about 15 or so cubic feet. I already have 4 kegs, digital tem controller, and just placed an order from Kegconection for a 4 tap system with all the upgrades.... the 4th tap is actually going to be Nitrogen setup with a wine faucet for my wife, other 3 will be Co2 beer. First thing I want to do is figure out how to wire up this controller, I'm just not 100% sure so I thought I would ask for help on this. I will include pics of my stuff.
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Old 08-28-2011, 03:44 PM   #2
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.... one more.
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Old 08-28-2011, 03:53 PM   #3
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Referring to this pic:

Connect an AC line cord with a male plug at the end, black wire to pins 1 and 3, white wire to pin 4.

Connect an AC line cord with female socket at the end, black wire to pin 2, white wire to pin 4.

Connect a temperature probe to pins 7 and 8.

[edit] Also, connect the green (grounding) wires from both line cords together!

Cheers!
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Old 08-28-2011, 03:57 PM   #4
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Easiest way IMO is to build a box to plug the fridge into like shown in the STC-1000 thread. The terminals are in a different order for this model, but everything else should be the same. The controller you have is only rated for 5 amps, so you should read the tag on your fridge and make sure it doesn't draw too much. Here's a simple diagram for that controller-



This shows the nuetral being switched, but you can switch the hot instead if you prefer.
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:16 PM   #5
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fwiw, the switch is rated for 10A at 110v.

Switching neutral always freaks me out, and I'd never wire anything that way, but it is permissible...

Cheers!
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:25 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by day_trippr View Post
fwiw, the switch is rated for 10A at 110v.

Switching neutral always freaks me out, and I'd never wire anything that way, but it is permissible...

Cheers!
You're thinking of the STC-1000. I have both, and the one posted in this thread is only rated for 5A.

And I also wired all of mine to switch the hot. I drew the diagram for someone who was trying to switch the neutral and was having some issues.
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:43 PM   #7
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Thats a big help, so everyone leaves the stock controller in place and just maxes it out I assume? Also my power cords in the freezer are not color coded, they just have a smooth side and a ribbed side.
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fhhobbies View Post
Thats a big help, so everyone leaves the stock controller in place and just maxes it out I assume? Also my power cords in the freezer are not color coded, they just have a smooth side and a ribbed side.
It doesn't really matter what you set the stock thermostat to since even the warmest setting is colder than you'll need it. Hold the plug up and pretend to plug it into the outlet drawn in my diagram to figure out which is which. Like I said though, the easiest thing is to make a control box that the freezer plugs into.
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:58 PM   #9
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Cool, ok I will build a box and wire it up like your pic, ty!
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Old 08-28-2011, 06:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JuanMoore View Post
You're thinking of the STC-1000. I have both, and the one posted in this thread is only rated for 5A.
Nope, I was actually just going by the picture that was posted by fhhobbies. Sure looks like it's rated at 10A for 110v applications. Are those labels erroneously applied?

Quote:
And I also wired all of mine to switch the hot. I drew the diagram for someone who was trying to switch the neutral and was having some issues.
I think that's prudent. To me, "off" should always mean "nothing hot in there"...

Cheers!
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