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Old 08-12-2011, 08:58 PM   #11
mredge73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gitapaynts View Post
I'm still wondering if anyone has measured resistance across the switch terminals of an ssr when there is no inout trigger signal and if they see 0 resistance like I do.
You have a direct short, toss it and get a new one.
You should be seeing resistance in the MegaOhms or near Infinite.


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Old 08-12-2011, 11:35 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by gitapaynts View Post
Just got home and per PJ unhooked the ssr and checked the element output. I get 1 volt across hots, 120 from 1 leg to neutral and 55 from the leg that was going through the ssr to neutral. The first two make sense to me, but I don't understand why I would get 55 from between the neutral and the disconnect other hot leg.
You MUST test an SSR with a proper load. Your DVM is useless.


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Old 08-12-2011, 11:57 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by mredge73 View Post
You have a direct short, toss it and get a new one.
You should be seeing resistance in the MegaOhms or near Infinite.
I misread that part from gitapaynts. This is correct. Resistance across the output terminals should be infinite with no input. This one test doesn't verify correct SSR operation however. A simple load like a lamp is the best test.
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Old 08-14-2011, 08:26 PM   #14
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Just did the light bulb test. I didn't bother digging out a 9 volt battery from the closet, just wired in a lamp through the SSR with all power off. As expected, the light worked, so I'm concluding the SSR is indeed fried closed. Ordering a new one now.

My built in digital ammeter also doesn't work correctly, reading 0.1A without adding load other than the LED lights and PID, and when adding either the element or pump, the meter simply oscillates in the tenths of an Amp. I'm going to go ahead and order a new one as well....

Thanks for the hints!
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Old 08-15-2011, 01:43 AM   #15
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My built in digital ammeter also doesn't work correctly
You may have a blown fuse. I'd check before buying a new one.


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