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Old 08-08-2011, 08:59 PM   #11
rhoadsrage
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I have used one of these camping pot heat exchangers on a friends camping pot. You might try that concept?

http://cascadedesigns.com/msr/stoves...hanger/product
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Old 08-08-2011, 10:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhoadsrage View Post
I have used one of these camping pot heat exchangers on a friends camping pot. You might try that concept?

http://cascadedesigns.com/msr/stoves...hanger/product
Interesting concept... would be more interesting if one of those didn't cost more than a kettle itself.

 
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Old 08-09-2011, 03:01 PM   #13
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I've been tossing around in my head how to make heating fins/sink/etc for a keggle in a cost and time effective way, to be able to capture some of the massive amount of lost heat. 6" vertical aluminum fins spaced 1/2" apart would seems ideal... but for a 52" circumference the time cost to fabricate and weld on the bits far outweighs the propane savings. Of course if a TIG welder drops in my lap AND i get bored on of these days i may try it...

Back to my original problem, the BG14's output a lot of gas. I'll see if i can't turn it down some more. I do need to weld up one of the skit holes, i'll pop in a couple more 1/2" holes and will report back in a week or so how it works out.

 
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:28 AM   #14
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Any updates on comparisons between before/after venting the skirt Outside???

 
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:46 AM   #15
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On my Blichmann burners the flames are lower/smaller but I get much better heat delivery from them to the mash tun keg. I'm actually putting together a keggle (in the process of polishing it) that will be used for my next batch. With four holes before the lower weld, I don't think there will be any issue with gas venting.

IF you do put additional holes in the skirt, you could see a reduction in how efficient the heating of the keggle is. In the new keggle I'm making, it has four holes already in the skirt (placed there by the manufacturer) which I'm leaving alone. Actually, I might see about getting one welded closed since it's really close to the ball valve (in line with one handle opening). IF I do that, I might place a hole in that same area, where it's safe. I just don't want the heat to come through the hole and either scorch the wort in the ball valve, or otherwise F up the hardware going in. An alternate would be to get a small half round (cut stainless tube) welded there to shield the hardware.
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:09 AM   #16
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Well after reading one of the other posts i chickened out on cutting the side holes. I did weld up one of the vents but it didn't seem to have any noticeable effect. I do have plans to swap out my HLT (13gal) with a bigger one (15.5gal), when i do that i'll do the experiment.

 
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:56 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outside92129 View Post
Well after reading one of the other posts i chickened out on cutting the side holes. I did weld up one of the vents but it didn't seem to have any noticeable effect. I do have plans to swap out my HLT (13gal) with a bigger one (15.5gal), when i do that i'll do the experiment.
Roger that. I think the distance from the bottom of the keg to the top of the burner has a big impact... Seems I've read that 4" is ideal. That's what I'm shooting for in my build.

Cheers!

 
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:58 PM   #18
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you could try my chimney idea which is working great. the hot gases escspe out one corner and the "Stack Effect" draws the fresh air up from below the burner. here's a link to my build http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/sing...-build-293204/
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:55 AM   #19
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On a somewhat related note, I made a "chimney" on my old rig which was about 2-3" in diameter larger than the kettle. It slipped down over the outside of the kettle & was nearly as tall. This kept any breeze off of the keg and conducted most of the hot gasses escaping from beneath upwards along the side of the kettle (between the kettle & chimney). It seemed like it helped a lot, but I did not make any before / after measurements. A friend did the same with his and saw improvement. The chimney was a piece of SS round duct found in the scrapyard.

 
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Old 02-21-2012, 02:34 AM   #20
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Weld the spear to the center of the keg. Let the flames shoot through the center of your wort. This would give the best efficiency with gas.
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