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Old 08-03-2011, 05:45 PM   #11
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If you heat honey above 100F you might as well just use sugar or DME. You do NOT need to heat honey AT ALL. It is 100% safe without ANY heating.

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Old 08-03-2011, 05:49 PM   #12
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I always just put it in the fermenter before I added the cooled wort. Put a gallon or two of wort onto the honey, shake it violently to get it to dissolve, then add the rest of the wort. It does dry out the beer, but you can taste honey flavor with as little as 1 or 2 pounds of honey in 5 gallons of beer.

I will likely use honey malt in the future, though, as it didn't give enough honey flavor for me. And high quality honey is expensive.

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Old 08-03-2011, 06:39 PM   #13
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The darker the honey the stronger the honey flavor - typically. Clover is a pretty light honey, you might want to look for a buckwheat or alphalpha or a wild flower honey from a hot state like TX, NM, AZ.

Become friends with a local bee keeper, or if you want to raise bees send me a message. The cool thing about honey is it takes on flavors from the plants the bees worked. This is how you end up with a true orange(citirus), watermelon (vine fruit) or my favorite and super expensive (to the consumer ) mesquite honey.

If your looking for the best (imo) brewing honey around, go with raw goldenrod honey. It stinks..bad.. but has a lower amount of fructose giving you a drier brew, but the taste really comes through since its not completely consumed by the yeast. The smell dies after a while.

I hear that holly honey is just as good if not better than goldenrod, but i dont have any growing around my apiary.

Hope this helps
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Old 08-03-2011, 08:35 PM   #14
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To all the nay sayers I had to back off the honey as it was overpowering, again a tried & well tested recipe that has been posted since 2007 on NB forum.


High grade honey, low hops, ferment cold, clean yeast and it works every time.
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