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Old 08-07-2011, 01:53 PM   #51
mredge73
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Takes 1.5-2H on my SETOS PID, I am sure the Auber is similar.

The first time that I tried to do the autotune, I accidently turned on the manual mode and it went way over my set point, you may have done the same thing.

 
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Old 08-07-2011, 04:25 PM   #52
Walker
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Auto tuning takes different amounts of time based on the system being controlled.

I use my brewery panel to also control a DIY electric smoker. I did separate auto tunes for the two systems. The brewery took 30 minutes and the smoker took 1 hour.

Edit: then I ended up manually adjusting the auto tuned numbers anyway because the system wasn't behaving as well as I wanted.
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Old 08-14-2011, 05:20 PM   #53
agezzi
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Ok guys thanks again. This worked great. And now I am addicted. This was way to much fun(giddy like a child) I did already brew with it. Sry for no pics of brewing. But I did get some of the kettle, controller and beer. I think it turned out rather nice! Now to move and do a complete set up when 240v is available.
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Old 08-14-2011, 05:24 PM   #54
weirdboy
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How did it go for heating things up? How long did it take to get up to strike temps?

 
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Old 08-14-2011, 05:35 PM   #55
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Well when I heated my strike water it took about 35 mins to hit temp. Time isn't a big deal for me. The control was great, set it and walk off. My brew day was cut by at least by an hour or more. For the boil I had a portable 8in hot plate. Set it on medium, medium high, and the used the pid on manual mode at 85%. Seem to b the sweet spot, kept a pretty continues boil. At 75% u could see it pluse.

 
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Old 08-14-2011, 11:45 PM   #56
P-J
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This image (I think) shows your input power cord to your control panel.


This one shows your power inlet on the panel.


I believe you need to change that configuration as it can put you at serious risk. When the cord is plugged into the wall, there is raw power available to touch with your hands on the other end of the cord. That is a Really Bad idea, IMHO.

You should put a standard cord outlet on the end of the cord and then change the panel outlet to a flush male inlet plug configuration.


http://www.mcmaster.com/#8036k2

Wishing you the best.

P-J

 
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Old 08-15-2011, 01:34 AM   #57
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Echo that, never leave power on the male end.

What is that you sealed your element with, I haven't sealed my RIMS element yet and that looks pretty good?

 
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Old 08-15-2011, 10:37 AM   #58
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I used a 1 1/4 pvc cap,drilled hole for cord. wired the element then used liquid tape to seal the terminals. Then took a 1 1/4 washer over the element threads, soldered the ground to the under side of the washer. jb welded that to the hex on the element. once dried i filled the cap with epoxy and set the element inside the cap( i did have to take carve out a area on the inside of the cap to make room for the ground wire) that makes the washer sit on top of the cap. when the epoxy set i jb welded the washer to the cap. I did not use the black gasket that came with the element.

To pj thanks for looking out for me. I did plan on getting that for the in side, but my dumb a** forgot to order it. So in a pinch i just bought another outlet... I am very carefull when using it. i never unplug the controls in tell its unpluged form the wall. as well as in plugging it in.

Here is a question tho, when i was looking on amazon i saw this plug for 20a 250v. will this work: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5829-R...403276&sr=8-13 or should i go with this one its a bit more put says 120v 20a: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-15378-...3404577&sr=1-8

 
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Old 08-15-2011, 11:12 AM   #59
P-J
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agezzi View Post
...
To pj thanks for looking out for me. I did plan on getting that for the in side, but my dumb a** forgot to order it. So in a pinch i just bought another outlet... I am very carefull when using it. i never unplug the controls in tell its unpluged form the wall. as well as in plugging it in.

Here is a question tho, when i was looking on amazon i saw this plug for 20a 250v. will this work: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5829-R...403276&sr=8-13 or should i go with this one its a bit more put says 120v 20a: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-15378-...3404577&sr=1-8
Either one will work for you but I'd get the part that matches the power that you are using so that there is no possibility of mistakes later on. I posted a link for one from Mcmaster as well. You also need the matching cord end.

 
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