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Old 08-04-2011, 03:29 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkarp View Post
While your solution is right, you might want to re-check your spec sheets. Typical SSR leakage is in the 3-5mA range. A heck of a lot higher than you're thinking. Plenty to light neon.
Well, it really depends on the particular manufacturer/model. Some of them have built-in circuits to limit the leakage current, and some don't. The ones that do typically leak current in the microamps range, but the ones that have no internal circuitry for that purpose will leak in the 1-10mA range depending upon the load.


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Old 08-05-2011, 03:56 PM   #42
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Hey to anyone out there I'm getting ready to seal up the PVC cap on the element. Does it matter how the terminals are wired to the element. And for the ground I took a 1 1/4 washer a brazed the ground to the washer then that goes under the black gasket that came with it. Will this work before she is sealed up. Please help. As well got the control panel ready for wires here's some pics


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Old 08-05-2011, 04:35 PM   #43
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I do electrical construction for a living and your box looks better than mine, good job!

A 120v element will have 1 hot and 1 neutral
A 240v element will have 2 hot and 0 neutral

Looks like you are good to go to seal it up in either case.

Note:
The plug and receptacle will be numbered, not color coded, always remember:
1 Black
2 White
3 Red
4 Green
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Old 08-05-2011, 06:13 PM   #44
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There is nothing that says what side to hook up the hot to or the neutral. I guess my question is does it matter what side goes where since it isn't marked does it mean the hot can go any where and then the same with neutral
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Old 08-05-2011, 06:15 PM   #45
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It is basically just a big resistor. You can hook it up either way and it will work the same.
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Old 08-05-2011, 06:19 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weirdboy
It is basically just a big resistor. You can hook it up either way and it will work the same.
Thank you sir. I thought so but wanted to double check before sealing her up.
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Old 08-06-2011, 12:20 PM   #47
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Ok well not sure what to do. Sry for all the questions. I used a washer to ground the element but in doing that I won't b able to use the black gasket that came with. So it will go (from inside out) locknut, o-ring,kettle wall, washer, element. Should that still give me a good seal? Should I wrap the element threads with teflon tape? I already started to seal element. And the controls are done. Here's some pics.

Thanks again u guys! p-j u sure r respected. As well weirdboy,jkarp and mredge73. Couldn't have done it and felt safe with out ya.
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Old 08-06-2011, 02:50 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weirdboy View Post
Well, it really depends on the particular manufacturer/model. Some of them have built-in circuits to limit the leakage current, and some don't. The ones that do typically leak current in the microamps range, but the ones that have no internal circuitry for that purpose will leak in the 1-10mA range depending upon the load.
In other words, you're saying to check the spec sheet.

The SSRs folks are buying from Auber do not have any such circuitry, hence my warning about the indicator lamp. Many on HBT have tripped up on that before.
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Old 08-06-2011, 02:55 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agezzi View Post
Ok well not sure what to do. Sry for all the questions. I used a washer to ground the element but in doing that I won't b able to use the black gasket that came with. So it will go (from inside out) locknut, o-ring,kettle wall, washer, element. Should that still give me a good seal?
Try it and see. Any weldless fitting takes a little tweaking to make water tight. You may have to add a little teflon tape to keep water from seeping through the threads and past the inside of the o-ring.
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Old 08-07-2011, 12:48 PM   #50
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One more question. What is the auto tune? And how long does it take. It's up and runnin now. But lastnight I ran auto tune for and hour. It never stopped. I set the temp to 170 and it went way over that. How do I use this feature. Dumb founded


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