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Old 07-31-2011, 02:21 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mredge73
It really depends on how far you are from the service breaker.
I use 12g to reduce my voltage drop since I am about 150' from the breaker.

It should be fine if you are <100' away.
Look around your house, a 1200w microwave uses 14-16g and passes UL standards.
You should be fine with 14g.
Ok I got 12/3 that will go from wall to control panel. Then got 14/3 for the control panel to the element. And I'm only about 5 feet from my breaker. The panels in the kitchen. So will that work ok and should I use stranded or solid for the inside wiring of the control panel.
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Old 07-31-2011, 03:29 PM   #32
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So will that work ok and should I use stranded or solid for the inside wiring of the control panel.
Yes it will work fine.
Doesn't really matter what you use inside, since it will stay put after you are done. I would use stranded to the element and to the wall.
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Old 08-01-2011, 12:13 AM   #33
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What's the best way to ground the element to the pot. Mine is aluminum unfortunately. Can I solder that some how. Clueless! As well can anyone help with a earlier post of mine(just a few back). Will doing it that way work out. Thanks
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:33 AM   #34
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ok starting the kettle today......P-J if ur out there or to anyone that will lend a comment. I played around with P-Js original to come up with this. let me know if this will work and if anything should be changed. thanks everyone for there help,couldnt do it with out you guys....cheers
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:14 PM   #35
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Assuming those lamps are neon (or any other sub 5mA current bulb), lamps 2 and 3 will always be on at the same time. Voltage is always present through an SSR and they typically leak enough current to light a neon or LED bulb.
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Old 08-03-2011, 03:48 PM   #36
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SSR typical leak current is in the micro amps, so a LED will light but not much else. I use a 1.5W incandescent where your 3rd light is and it works just fine. If your neon stays lit then replace it with a higher wattage bulb.

The diagram is pretty small so I cannot tell what switches you are using, just make sure they are current rated to handle the entire load. Also never fuse the neutral or ground wires, you have a bar on them but I cannot really tell what it is.
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:02 PM   #37
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ok did i get the wrong one http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=215. Should it be this one http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=218. 1st 0ne is 120v 2nd is 12v. on the website it says on the 120v its for a pid and shows the same pid i got. can i use it and how do I wire it please help stuck. i just got it all today hope i can use it,what i read in the instruction manual the pid is 12v........am i lost some were?
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:07 PM   #38
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I'm sorry but your diagram is way to small to be able to see the details of it.
My guess is that you need the 120V version of the 1st link.
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Old 08-04-2011, 05:57 AM   #39
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sry on the diagram,made some changes.it still is a little small,hope you can read it. let me know. i did figure out the buzzer in another thread. thanks to everyone. will try and take pics. starting in the morn did get a chance to tonight.
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:35 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mredge73 View Post
SSR typical leak current is in the micro amps, so a LED will light but not much else. I use a 1.5W incandescent where your 3rd light is and it works just fine. If your neon stays lit then replace it with a higher wattage bulb.
While your solution is right, you might want to re-check your spec sheets. Typical SSR leakage is in the 3-5mA range. A heck of a lot higher than you're thinking. Plenty to light neon.
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