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Old 07-27-2011, 12:02 PM   #11
jkarp
 
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As long as you've got a plan to leverage the PID in the future, it makes sense.

The problem with sharing that circuit with the mini fridge is, compressors have a large current requirement at startup. It's possible the breaker will pop when it cycles on.
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Old 07-27-2011, 04:22 PM   #12
agezzi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkarp
As long as you've got a plan to leverage the PID in the future, it makes sense.

The problem with sharing that circuit with the mini fridge is, compressors have a large current requirement at startup. It's possible the breaker will pop when it cycles on.
So does that mean when it kicks on it's pulling more then the rated 1.5 amps? If so I will need to find a new spot for the mini-fridge. As well I'm will go with auberin pid. Can I still use buzzer with temp on manual?

 
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Old 07-27-2011, 04:55 PM   #13
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I don't think it's an issue if you are using a 1500W element, which is only going to draw ~12.5A, if you have a 20A breaker on that circuit.

That is, assuming the wiring in the wall is of the proper gauge.

 
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Old 07-27-2011, 07:19 PM   #14
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Even at 2000W you only draw ~16 amps. Also breakers are a bit more complicated than just triping if they are over current. There is a curve for how long before a breaker trips based on how much current is drawn. So if it is just barely over you have a little time before a trip.
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Old 07-27-2011, 07:23 PM   #15
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I would be more worried about frying the wiring if it is not up to spec, which can be the case in an older place.

Although in my place even on the 15A breakers all my wire runs are 12ga.

 
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Old 07-28-2011, 12:38 AM   #16
agezzi
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So wait could I use a 2000w element? Or should I play it safe and go 1500w. One other thought as well. Could I use a low density 240 at 120. If so watt size would I want to keep in the 1500 range.( if correct they use 1/4 the watts at 120v.) It would b nice not to have to change elements when I move.

 
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Old 07-28-2011, 12:39 PM   #17
wilserbrewer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agezzi View Post
So wait could I use a 2000w element? Or should I play it safe and go 1500w. One other thought as well. Could I use a low density 240 at 120. If so watt size would I want to keep in the 1500 range.( if correct they use 1/4 the watts at 120v.) It would b nice not to have to change elements when I move.
A 20 amp circuit will handle 2000w. Running a 240v element at 120 will only give 1/4 the wattage, not enough IMO. 1500w is very slow, go at least 2000watts. Run 2 elements at 2000w, 4kw total and you are in business!

 
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Old 07-28-2011, 02:22 PM   #18
agezzi
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Ok well I would like a 2000w,but the only breaker I can use is 20 amps. The thing is my mini fridge is on the same breaker. So can I use a 2000w element on a 20 amp breaker with the mini fridge(1.5w)? For now this will just help the boil on stove. Will add another element when I move.

 
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Old 07-28-2011, 02:54 PM   #19
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Go 2KW. Wost that's going to happen is the breaker will trip when the fridge cycles on. If it does, just unplug it for the brew session.
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Old 07-28-2011, 03:02 PM   #20
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If you are worried about the fridge, unplug it and leave it closed.
The temperature will not drop much in the <2 hours it takes to do an extract batch.
You shouldn't need to do that at all, if the breaker is fairly modern then it is not fast blow like some fuses. It will compensate for the emf required for the inrush current of the fridge.

The old apartment is likely using 14g copper wire. Not to worry though, the only effect you will see at a high current will be a slight voltage drop.
http://www.electrician2.com/calculat...r_initial.html
It may be warm to the touch, but the wire will not get hot enough to cause any damage.

Fire occurs when you get a direct short and your breaker fails to trip. Example, try pushing 100A+ through a 14g wire for X amount of time.

 
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