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Old 09-09-2011, 01:42 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randar View Post
Yep, and if you're one of those double brew day folks, you can get a head start on your mash or sparge water heating.
This is what I do! I use a CFC.

Another use for the used cooling water is to pour it all into buckets and pour it from the buckets into your washing machine for the next load.

To answer the OP's question, a plate chiller would be your best bet, or you could no-chill and use no water.
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Old 09-09-2011, 01:46 PM   #42
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If this has already been mentioned, I apologize. You can hook up a garden hose to the outlet end of your immersion chiller, attach a sprinkler and water your lawn. Or use the outlet end to start doing dishes.
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Old 09-09-2011, 02:04 PM   #43
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With caution... the first 5-10 gallons of IC outflow is usually near 200F and a good way to kill your lawn. It would actually be better used to kill any stray weeks you have growing around your paved surfaces.
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Old 09-09-2011, 02:34 PM   #44
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Yeah, generally I agree that it's impossible to "waste" water. It will just return as part of the cycle, of course. But for people that live in areas where their water supply verges on at-capacity during the summer, everyone generally tries to conserve. Some to be nice and not wasteful, some to save on expensive water bills.

The water I use comes from a river, which comes from many smaller rivers and streams. What I take out of it and then proceed to dump on the lawn won't make it back to that river this summer when it's needed, if ever. Granted, it will go somewhere and be (probably) used by someone, but that's a different story. It actually gets back to that river faster if I dump it in the city drainage!

 
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Old 09-09-2011, 02:55 PM   #45
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Immersian chillers are nowhere near as fast as plate / counterflow chillers for 2 reasons: total surface area, and more importantly, you can do one-pass chilling. One-pass is where you maximize your chilling water flow, and slow your wort flow to the point where it is coming out of the chiller at your pitching temp. Can't do this with an immersion chiller.

Saving water is easy if you use a submersible pump and an available body of water. Keeping a tank of rainwater would work (these are becoming pretty common). I use my pool. Just run the return water back to whence it came.
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Old 09-09-2011, 02:56 PM   #46
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I just don't like wasting water, even though I live minutes from Lake Erie. I've been running a cooling loop (with a HF pond pump) from an ice filled 7gal cooler through my 40 plate CF chiller. I use cubes & blocks & just a bit of "starter water"-when all is said & done I have about 5-5 1/2 gal of water that I use for clean up. It's faster than tap water too.

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Old 09-09-2011, 03:07 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by passedpawn View Post
I use my pool. Just run the return water back to whence it came.
What do you do when your pool is 90+ degrees?
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Old 09-10-2011, 04:17 AM   #48
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I don't understand why people don't just freeze a 4L of filtered water like I do and add it to the wort instead of spending gobs of money on wort chillers that also waste so much water. It brings the wort down to about 25 degrees or less and then I can pitch my yeast. Can someone explain why this method isn't used more??

 
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Old 09-10-2011, 02:33 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowbeavers View Post
I don't understand why people don't just freeze a 4L of filtered water like I do and add it to the wort instead of spending gobs of money on wort chillers that also waste so much water. It brings the wort down to about 25 degrees or less and then I can pitch my yeast. Can someone explain why this method isn't used more??
Because many of the people here are brewing All Grain or are doing full wort extract boils, neither of which allow for adding water (or ice) post boil.

 
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Old 09-10-2011, 02:53 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowbeavers View Post
I don't understand why people don't just freeze a 4L of filtered water like I do and add it to the wort instead of spending gobs of money on wort chillers that also waste so much water. It brings the wort down to about 25 degrees or less and then I can pitch my yeast. Can someone explain why this method isn't used more??
I've done this, even with all grain. I did so because I couldn't bring 6+ gallons to a boil on my electric stove and because I didn't have a chiller and was concerned about the amount of time to bring the temperature down post-boil. However, there are some "costs" in doing this. First, since you will be using less water pre-boil, your efficiency (if doing all grain) will be lower. This means your grain bill will be higher. Second, since you are boiling the hops additions in less water, they are less effective and you will have to up the hops to get the same bitterness ratio. I know this sounds weird (my lhbs first told me and I've confirmed it in using beersmith). So, you hops costs will be higher.

 
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