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Old 07-24-2011, 03:06 PM   #1
TheBroonery
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I Decided to undertake the project of moving the CO2 tank out of the beer fridge. Since the fridge is tucked in between a wall and 2 stacked drawer units, there is nowhere convenient less than 4' away from the fridge to put a tank. So I ran 1/4" copper tubing from the regulator to a bulkhead I made out of brass fittings, which has a barbed fitting on the inside of the fridge. I replaced the barbed fitting on my regulator with a 1/4" flare fitting. Materials cost was about $40, but I did have to buy a $25 flaring tool and I probably had over $10 worth of leftover brass fittings that I didn't need. There's also a spring pipe bender tool that Home Depot has for $10, which is helpful for avoiding kinks, but not absolutely necessary. The whole project took only about 3 or 4 hours. The pictures are low quality due to the low level of light I keep in the beer room, and my old cellphone. SWMBO doesn't know yet that the fridge can now fit another keg without removing shelves on both sides...
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Old 07-24-2011, 03:31 PM   #2
rossi46
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thats cool. I have been wanting to do that for a while now. may have to do that soon.

 
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Old 07-24-2011, 03:44 PM   #3
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I did mine with a 1/4" MFL bulkhead fitting and some beer gas line/tubing with swivel nuts.... Hardest part, for me, was getting the nuts on either side of the bulkhead tight. I put that on the door side of the fridge, so that the tank would be out of the way. With the gas line on the outside (4' of it) I have the flexibility of putting the tank where I like without fear of kinking the tubing. It also means I can use three different sized CO2 tanks with ease (I have one 20#, one 5# and two 2.5# for use with the brew fridge). I did connect the inside end of the bulkhead with my manifold (3 port) so that I can feed three kegs easily.

I initially went with the PVC reinforced gas line inside the fridge, since that's what I could get for the swivel nut side. I should have more 5/16" swivel nuts waiting for me at home. I plan to change that reinforced line with standard, two wall, red gas line early in the week.

BTW, my setup took less than an hour to get everything together and working.
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Old 07-24-2011, 05:35 PM   #4
RJSkypala
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Im actually heading off to home depot in a little bit to get parts to do this same thing. I'm gonna go through the collar on my keezer. I figure it will keep things neater on the inside and allow me to fit 1 extra keg that I can have on deck when one kicks.

 
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Old 07-29-2011, 01:04 AM   #5
TheBroonery
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I've now completed the second phase of this project, pimping my regulator using a Wye, a 90, a nipple, and another valve.

I now have a 'station' for force carbonating, by closing the valve to the current keg and opening the valve on for the one I'm carbonating, then I can purge the system through the disconnect and reset the regulator for serving beer.
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Old 07-29-2011, 01:43 AM   #6
redrider736
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New to all of this. Is relocating it out of the fridge only for space savings or is there more to than that ??
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Old 07-29-2011, 01:53 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redrider736 View Post
New to all of this. Is relocating it out of the fridge only for space savings or is there more to than that ??
Space savings, or more room for kegs, is why I moved mine. Plus, IMO, it's easier to see the pressure when it's outside the fridge/keezer/kegorator/etc... I can check the gauges at a glance, without opening the fridge door this way.

Plus, I'm waiting for the puzzled looks when people see my CO2 tanks outside the fridge... I don't have any taps installed yet, so there's no other visible evidence of beer being available via keg in my place. Well, other than the slew of brewing/beer related hardware all over the kitchen (and creeping into the livingroom)...

I'm thinking about getting a second regulator, and either a single or dual body model, so that I can also carbonate kegs outside of the fridge. Plus, it will go to good use once I have the space for a keezer. If I go with a dual body regulator, I could send one feed to the fridge, and have the other for carbonating outside of the fridge. Later, I'll be able to feed two different manifolds, at different pressures, to carbonate to different levels as desired. Right now, I'm getting a similar effect by having the kegs at slightly different temperatures (via placement). I have thermometer strips on each keg, so I have a pretty solid idea of their temperatures. Such as the ones at the bottom of the fridge are at 40F, while the one on the shelf is at 42F... Might not seem like much, but it's enough to get them to where I want them.
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Hopping Tango Brewery

跟猴子比丟屎 ・ Gun HOE-tze bee DIO-se

On Tap: Caramel Ale, Mocha Porter II, MO SMaSH IPA
Waiting/Carbonating: 12.5% Wee Honey II, 8.9% Old Ale, English Brown Ale, Lickah ESB, Mocha Porter II
Fermenting
K1:
K2: Epic mead
K3: TripSix
On Deck: Caramel Ale
Aging:mead
Mead [bottled]:Oaked Wildflower Traditional, Mocha Madness, Blackberry Melomel, maple wine

 
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Old 07-29-2011, 02:53 AM   #8
shataway
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Very nice. What did you do to avoid hitting a coolant line when you drilled through?

 
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Old 07-29-2011, 03:57 AM   #9
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Not sure about the OP, but I checked the drawings of the fridge I'm using to make sure there were no coolant lines going through the sides. On mine, everything is on/off the back.
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Hopping Tango Brewery

跟猴子比丟屎 ・ Gun HOE-tze bee DIO-se

On Tap: Caramel Ale, Mocha Porter II, MO SMaSH IPA
Waiting/Carbonating: 12.5% Wee Honey II, 8.9% Old Ale, English Brown Ale, Lickah ESB, Mocha Porter II
Fermenting
K1:
K2: Epic mead
K3: TripSix
On Deck: Caramel Ale
Aging:mead
Mead [bottled]:Oaked Wildflower Traditional, Mocha Madness, Blackberry Melomel, maple wine

 
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Old 07-29-2011, 10:51 AM   #10
TheBroonery
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Golddiggie View Post
Not sure about the OP, but I checked the drawings of the fridge I'm using to make sure there were no coolant lines going through the sides. On mine, everything is on/off the back.
I Did the same thing. Find the model # for your fridge and search a parts website. They'll have blown up diagrams of how everything is put together.

 
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