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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > Group Buy: Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra barrier line
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:38 PM   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SankePankey View Post
Also, the method described before using a heat gun, screwdriver, dunking in water, etc. has yielded that many sets (so times 2 - for a total of 26 barbs) with ZERO leaks or do overs. No clamps. And the line is pretty rigid, so during the install there were plenty of opportunities for a leak to be sprung (from manhandling and placement).
I still haven't installed my line yet so your post was very helpful.

Am I understanding you correctly when you say you used no clamps at all to attach the hose to the shanks and the beverage connectors on the keg? You just pushed the line onto the barbs and that's it?


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Old 09-14-2011, 01:50 PM   #212
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http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/grou...ml#post3174644

Actually, if you're careful, you don't need the needle nose. Just use the screwdriver and barb. I put the barb on a ball lock for grip. Takes about 3-4 mins per barb. No leaks, no clamps. Just heat at the end and dunk in water so you give it a final 'melt' around the barb. Oh, and use the low setting on your heat gun.


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Old 09-14-2011, 01:56 PM   #213
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I second the "melt on the barb" philosophy. I found it was harder for me to use the boiling water method, and easier to use the heat gun. I just propped it up and could bring the work into the heat and out as needed. With the water you have to deal with wet + hot. Just my .02 cents. I did give a little "melt on the barb" heat at the end of wiggling the hosing on.
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:09 PM   #214
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hey sanke --

also are your lines coiled anywhere? i can't tell from your pic...it looks like the lines go down to the bottom of the keezer then back up to the kegs, but that doesn't seem like 10+ ft?
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:14 PM   #215
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I put them in between the kegs to maintain temperature to get as little foam as possible. That's actually a benefit of longer lines. More of it is down where it's cold.

I should probably get a little computer fan setup to circulate the cold air, but I've not done that.
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:07 PM   #216
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Hey gang, we've still got a handful of this tubing left in anyone wants it. Thanks!
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:06 PM   #217
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I gave this stuff another shot last night and I think I'm getting the hang of it. The disconnect slipped on eventually without issue. It's the tailpiece I'm still having problems with. I was able to get it on after a fight but there was a slight leak, even with a clamp. However, I think I may have the technique down and as long as I am successful after trying again tonight I may be ordering some more of this.

In case you're wondering what I do I dip the end of the tubing in boiling water (as most do) and jam a large phillips head screwdriver in the end to widen it temporarily (as others do). After a couple tries with the disconnect it went on great. It takes a bit to get past the first barb on a 1/4" tailpiece but once there using some more heat and brute force (i.e. grasping the tubing and banging the tailpiece straight down on a hard surface until it gets to where you want it) it eventually works. I think the reason mine leaked is because I had bent the tubing during previous attempts so the tailpiece did not go on straight.
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:02 PM   #218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoogieBrandBooze View Post
I gave this stuff another shot last night and I think I'm getting the hang of it. The disconnect slipped on eventually without issue. It's the tailpiece I'm still having problems with. I was able to get it on after a fight but there was a slight leak, even with a clamp. However, I think I may have the technique down and as long as I am successful after trying again tonight I may be ordering some more of this.

In case you're wondering what I do I dip the end of the tubing in boiling water (as most do) and jam a large phillips head screwdriver in the end to widen it temporarily (as others do). After a couple tries with the disconnect it went on great. It takes a bit to get past the first barb on a 1/4" tailpiece but once there using some more heat and brute force (i.e. grasping the tubing and banging the tailpiece straight down on a hard surface until it gets to where you want it) it eventually works. I think the reason mine leaked is because I had bent the tubing during previous attempts so the tailpiece did not go on straight.
I found it very easy to get the line on tailpieces by going through the normal boiling water/screwdrive/needlenose pliers method, but then pushing the hose onto the barb while the backside of the tailpiece was up against a wall. I was able to get it with one shot this way with all 4 of my taps.
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:05 PM   #219
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hmmmm... I like the wall idea...sure beats banging the p*ss out of it on the counter...
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:27 PM   #220
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Quote:
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hmmmm... I like the wall idea...sure beats banging the p*ss out of it on the counter...
I bet you will get it pushed onto the barb on the first try. Using the wall lets you control the direction of force as well as increase it by using your body weight.


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