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Old 07-12-2011, 09:47 PM   #1031
CPooley4
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Apr 2009
Cottage Grove, Wisconsin
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Old 07-15-2011, 12:53 PM   #1032
Cybershadow
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May 2010
Windsor, PA
Posts: 180
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I downloaded his bsm file and opened in beersmith. The color says 5.2, but the actual beer he made, along with dfh 60 looks darker. Is it me or is beersmith off on the color calculation?

 
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Old 07-18-2011, 02:34 PM   #1033
Remmis
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Jul 2011
Houston, TX
Posts: 8

Quote:
Originally Posted by norciabrewmonk View Post
When I did the extract version, one thing I didn't do was hit the original gravity. I was quite a bit over (1.082). I made 2 liter yeast starter starting with a 1.040 wort and using the WYeast 1056 American Ale smackpack.

Now, I will admit that when we steeped the grains, we squeezed the hell out of the grain bag at the end to get out as much of the sugars as possible (at the time I didn't know the possible tannin problem of doing that ).

So, otherwise we followed the instructions in the extract version (substituted Columbus because that was all I could get). I then topped it off to 17 liters before adding the yeast starter (whole thing, didn't decant the yeast). Before I added the yeast starter it was around 1.090, then the yeast starter diluted it to 1.082. Do you think I went over because we squeezed the grain bag too much, or could it just be my brand of powdered malt extract, or am I missing some other calculation?
The assumption here is that you bring your volume to 17 liters allowing the 2 liter starter to bring your total volume to 5 gallons (19 liters), is that right?

I think the "problem" is that per the recipe those last two liters would be water (1.000) and not starter wort (1.040) which would lower the OG a bit more.

You can:

* Decant your yeast starter and only pitch the yeast
* Fill to 19L and then pitch the starter (bringing total volume to 21L)
* Enjoy your slightly increased alcohol content

I am happy to be corrected but I don't think you get much more dissolved sugars by squeezing the steeped grain bag, mostly starches.

 
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Old 07-18-2011, 10:01 PM   #1034
Yooper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cybershadow View Post
I downloaded his bsm file and opened in beersmith. The color says 5.2, but the actual beer he made, along with dfh 60 looks darker. Is it me or is beersmith off on the color calculation?
"His" BSM file?

Anyway, this is a pretty light colored beer.
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Old 07-20-2011, 07:04 PM   #1035
clydo
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May 2011
Sugar Hill, GA
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This is a 5 star beer in my book. I brewed this last month and am down to a six pack. Amazing and packs a punch.

 
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Old 07-21-2011, 04:13 PM   #1036
boltsfan
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Jun 2010
San Diego
Posts: 31

Brewing the extract recipe on Saturday.

Just want to be clear on when to add first and final hop additions to the boil. Did anyone use a specific hop schedule or just followed Yoopers directions to a tee?

If local HBS does not have Pacman is White Labs ok?

 
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Old 07-21-2011, 04:15 PM   #1037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boltsfan View Post
Brewing the extract recipe on Saturday.

Just want to be clear on when to add first and final hop additions to the boil. Did anyone use a specific hop schedule?

If local HBS does not have Pacman is White Labs ok?
I have been adding the bittering hops at 60 minutes, and then mixing up the simcoe and amarillo and continously hopping those in the last 30 minutes, ending at flame out. Lschiavo and I are making this on Saturday, and that's what we'll do. We're using magnum for bittering, since that's what we both have.

White labs yeast strains are fine- use WLP001 if they have it. Ferment it at 64-66 degrees if you can.
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Old 07-21-2011, 06:35 PM   #1038
boltsfan
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Jun 2010
San Diego
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Thanks Yooper!

Also, can I skip the dry hopping or is it necessary for this IPA?

 
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Old 07-21-2011, 08:38 PM   #1039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boltsfan View Post
Thanks Yooper!

Also, can I skip the dry hopping or is it necessary for this IPA?
It's necessary! The dryhopping adds to it, and you can't really get the same aroma/flavor any other way.
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Old 07-22-2011, 02:54 PM   #1040
boltsfan
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Jun 2010
San Diego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper View Post
It's necessary! The dryhopping adds to it, and you can't really get the same aroma/flavor any other way.
Do I need to transfer to secondary to dry hop?

I really prefer to only move my beer once

 
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