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Old 07-19-2011, 02:38 PM   #21
Duckfoot
 
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I have been using an eHLT for a while now... 240vac with a 4500w element in an inverted keg... Love it...
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Old 07-19-2011, 03:24 PM   #22
lschiavo
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For another option, here are the float switches I used. I liked the 1/2 threads.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MAD...&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1

 
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Old 07-19-2011, 05:10 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by kevink View Post
Does the hex look like its welded to the tube or just pressed on? I'm wondering if it's possible for fluid to get between the two.

Thanks!
I'll have to look when I get home, but I am pretty sure it is welded on.
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Old 07-21-2011, 05:53 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpr121
I have a 2000W element in a 5 gallon pot. It works for normal 5 gallon batches if you increase your mash water/grist ratio and/or do a double batch sparge. Since going to 10 gallons, I use it to heat the strike water (usually do not need more than 5 gallons) and also as supplement hot water if I need to adjust mash temp, or to do a mashout. The rest of the sparge is heated in my BK, drained into a bucket until sparge time.

Its definitely a juggling act, so I would recommend going with 10 gallons to begin with. I will probably move to a sankey eHLT at some point, probably when I can find someone who wants to buy the 5 gallon one off me. I originally bought the 5 gallon pot thinking I would never do anything other than partial boils. Now that the sickness has taken hold, I’m looking to do the biggest batches I can physically manage.
So how much you want for the 5 gal?
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Old 07-22-2011, 12:55 PM   #25
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What did you do for a thermowell with the 1/4" probes (Johnson, ranco) ?
Does it fit in 1/4" stainless tubing like BF sells ?

I'm trying to decide if I should put the electrics in the lid or the cooler itself.
I was thinking that I could heat the water directly in the MLT for the strike water.
Then remove the lid and the electrics and put it onto the HLT to start the strike water.
I would have to have two (almost) matching coolers to do this.

Or putting it into the HLT and it being special purpose.
Has anyone combined the thermowell and sightglass into a single rubber stopper ?

Wow, the eHLT looks like a $150-200 project.

 
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Old 07-23-2011, 02:45 AM   #26
AiredAle
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Sorry for the late reply. I used exactly the switch that Walker turned up on eBay. They are water proof when installed correctly - drill the right size hole and use the seal that comes with it. Mine is installed in a former keg, so only a thin wall to contend with instead of a thick walled cooler.

The float can be removed and reversed to make it open or close its circuit when the water level drops. Some are rated for DC and some for AC so read the eBay ad carefully. I got the AC rated one, and put it in the circuit between the PID controller and the relay that operates the element.

 
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Old 07-23-2011, 03:07 AM   #27
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AiredAle, Can you tell me if the nut closest to the float is welded to the tube or is it possible for fluid to pass between the nut and the tube?

 
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Old 07-23-2011, 03:09 PM   #28
Walker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevink View Post
AiredAle, Can you tell me if the nut closest to the float is welded to the tube or is it possible for fluid to pass between the nut and the tube?
crap. I totally spaces on checking on this. I am walking out to the garage right now to look.
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Old 07-23-2011, 03:12 PM   #29
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looks like it is welded on. but, even if it isn't... I'm not sure why you are concerned about liquid between the nut and the tube. There is a built-on nylon gasket on the thing that makes the whole thing liquid-tight when you install through the kettle wall.
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Old 07-23-2011, 03:40 PM   #30
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Thanks, Walker! If it weren't welded on and liquid could get between them, it will probably leak as the nylon washer is most likely not going to make a seal on the threads.

 
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