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Old 07-18-2011, 12:09 PM   #71
P-J
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowhuntah View Post
Never mind....found it in the legend.
Yea, I try to give the info when I put diagrams together. Just posted the links as it's easier to click it than type it out.

 
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:32 PM   #72
bowhuntah
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P-J, the relay is energized via switch #1 pin #6? If so, doesn't the diagram show the HLT PID controlling the boil and vice versa?

 
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:01 AM   #73
P-J
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowhuntah View Post
P-J, the relay is energized via switch #1 pin #6? If so, doesn't the diagram show the HLT PID controlling the boil and vice versa?
No. The diagram is shown with no power being delivered to it. The relay is shown in it's normally closed position. Switch #1 is shown in the "boil" position as that is how I drew it.

HTH

 
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Old 07-19-2011, 03:49 AM   #74
P-J
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Just a tidbit of info on how I do things in my drawings to avoid some of the confusion:

An example - A switch drawing and explanation that I did a few years ago for someone that didn't understand how I did an illustration:






And then switch #1 in your diagram with all of the bits and pieces before I put it together:







Which ends up as this in the drawing:







Yea, Sometimes I go crazy in the detail and accuracy I try to achieve. I guess I could have illustrated it in the center off position to avoid some confusion.
Sorry for that - my bad.
Mea culpa.

P-J

 
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Old 07-19-2011, 07:13 PM   #75
P-J
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Mar 2010
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Getting old sucks.

Just for my peace of mind with this whole thing, I redrew Switch-1 so that it is shown in the Center Off position. This way the entire diagram is shown with all of the switches in the off position. So, now it does not matter if the plan is visualized with power on or off.

Not to break the progress of the changes within this thread, it is a new drawing with a different name.

Click on the image to see the full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17"):



P-J

 
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Old 07-20-2011, 02:42 PM   #76
beermac
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I have a 30 gal boil pot with two 5500 watt/240V ULD heat elements and found it to be very economical and quiet !! When analyzing what a PID does you may wonder what will it do to control boil overs. A PID with a PL 100 or equiv thermocouple controls the temp of a process (PV) and not the energy input (rate of boil). The PV temp will be 212 and will stay at 212 until all the wort is boiled away. Mother nature guarrantees that. Temp control is not needed, however, energy input to the heaters will control boil overs. I use PID's for my HLT and Mashtun. For the boil tank I use a 80 amp Crydom random switching (as aposed to a zero-crossing) SSR, available at Newark Electronics controlled with a SSRMAN-1P control board which attaches directly to the SSR. A potentiometer or PID, if you need to get real precise, can be used to control the SSRMAN-1P which in turn controls the SSR which controls the amount of energy sent to the heating elements. Sounds complicated but simpler and more effective than a PID. I turn up the heat, get thru hot break and turn down the heat to maintain the rolling boil you like and let it go. The heat element does not cycle from full-on to totally-off as the PID would do and greatly reduces any chance of scorching.

 
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Old 08-16-2011, 10:30 PM   #77
bowhuntah
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I'm making some progress on my controller. It's about 90% complete.






 
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:37 PM   #78
jsguitar
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Looking good bowhuntah. That's a beastly system you're working on. Looking forward to seeing the rest of it.

 
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:59 PM   #79
bowhuntah
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This project has been a lot more work than I expected...rewarding though.





Kettles finally arrived!


 
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Old 11-23-2011, 07:37 PM   #80
Ppeg34
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I am following this schematic loosely for my own brewery.

The three way switch is rated only for 9 amps at 250v though. It is rated for 25 amps at 125 v. Since we are running 240 v through the heating elements will this be a problem?

 
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