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Old 12-11-2012, 11:20 PM   #21
MarcusKillion
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Mar 2012
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Sweet setup . thanks for all this good info . I am going to get on this project soon.

 
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:30 AM   #22
Psych
 
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Totally, good luck! Be sure to post up when you have something rolling! Or if things catch fire lol...nahhhhh they won't catch fire

 
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:37 AM   #23
inhousebrew
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minneapolis, minnesota
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Been looking at doing a similar setup except I think I'll use my pump to recirculate during the mash and use the PID to control the element during it as well. Anyways, I've been looking at ways to cut costs since I'm still a student (one that will be a teacher eventually so I figured I'd get used to cost cutting now) and I like you're toolbox setup and from a quick search they seem way cheaper and probably easier for me to cut than a metal project box. Can you use any old plastic toolbox like that for a control box or should I be looking for something specific?
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:39 PM   #24
Psych
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inhousebrew View Post
Been looking at doing a similar setup except I think I'll use my pump to recirculate during the mash and use the PID to control the element during it as well. Anyways, I've been looking at ways to cut costs since I'm still a student (one that will be a teacher eventually so I figured I'd get used to cost cutting now) and I like you're toolbox setup and from a quick search they seem way cheaper and probably easier for me to cut than a metal project box. Can you use any old plastic toolbox like that for a control box or should I be looking for something specific?
Nah any toolbox works, I picked up the cheapest one I could find that had enough room in it for everything. The magic of the plastic case is it's non-conductive, it's super easy to put small screws into for mounting things, and heck it has a handle for picking up!

Most of my items are affixed to it by very small screws coming in the outside in, even for the items mounted on the inside. Means there's no pointy bits poking out. And all of the cutting I did with an exacto knife and a drill to start the holes. Worked like a champ!

I've since added a further 120v plug on the back side of it so I can plug my exhaust fan in, works great, safely mounted, sweet action.

 
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:35 PM   #25
inhousebrew
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Sweet! Thanks for the confirmation on the tool box. Yes, a nice fancy metal one with a pre-cut space for a specific PID would be nice but so would an extra $20 to spend on fittings or whatever else I need.
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Old 02-14-2013, 04:46 AM   #26
snowtires
 
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Sep 2012
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This is genius. Exactly what I need/want.
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:43 PM   #27
Kayakr1988
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Dec 2012
Wilmington, NC
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With the xerox cord which color wires go to what.

I have a Green/yellow= ground
Blue
Black
Brown

Not sure which goes to which?

I am thinking brown is neutral but want to be sure.

Thanks,
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:06 PM   #28
Psych
 
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You're best off getting a cheap multimeter, it's really really important for building a safe setup. You can test for proper grounding and you can also test which wire leads to what prong on the plug, telling you what is what.

Off the top of my head I believe the BLUE is neutral, the black and brown are the two hot legs, and of course green is ground.

But yeah multimeter, $15 any cheapy will do, is your best friend

 
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Old 09-09-2013, 03:29 PM   #29
ODI3
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Sep 2010
LONDON, Ontario Canada
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Those xerox cords are apparently not a safe gfci for human protection, but rather just equipment protection.
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Old 09-10-2013, 06:35 PM   #30
Psych
 
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I thought I read they meet the standards in England or something, at whatever milliamps but the US/Canadian standards are half that. But heck, if it's safe enough for the Britts it's safe enough for me.

But again I'd be tempted to do it without GFCI next time, pain in the butt to get cords and GFCI breakers are hideously expensive in Canada. What could possibly go wrong.....

 
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