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Old 07-21-2013, 04:07 PM   #101
betadave
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Jul 2011
Lodi, CA
Posts: 28
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I am not sure what you mean by KNOWLEDGEABLE. I will suggest a bit but you can decide if you want to consider what I say as sensible. I am not an electrical engineer. If you need professional advice, you probably need to hire somebody. First, read what Omega has to say about fuses here:

http://www.omega.com/auto/pdf/REF_FuseSizingGuide.pdf

Since you have a resistive load, you will have no issues with startup surges, etc. I would suggest a fast acting fuse. If your current jumps, it would likely mean there is a short to ground or a serious overvoltage condition. You want the system to shut down quickly. You might want to put two fuses in since you have hot leads to both sides of the heating element. If the fuse in the schematic blows, the heater will stop but will still have a voltage of 110 V to ground. It is possible that the heating element would continue running at half power. Since failures occur in unexpected ways, you would have to imagine the consequences of having the voltage remain on.

Fuses with a delay would make sense with something like motors where there might be a high current starting load. You will not have that. The current your system should pull is 22.9 amps if everything is spot on for voltage and power. It would be a good idea to measure the current to know what you really have. I would think something like a 25 or 30 amp fuse would be a good size.

Good luck.

 
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:57 PM   #102
Lucio
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Jul 2013
Posts: 1

anyone has ever tried these ones? They appear to have a SSR included.


http://dx.com/p/c100-ssr-digital-tem...e-black-137496


http://dx.com/p/c700-ssr-output-temp...r-black-149595

 
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Old 07-28-2013, 03:01 AM   #103
varocketry
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Apr 2013
Detroit
Posts: 14
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There is an auction on EBAY for this C100 PID unit, a thermocouple and a SSR.
and the shipping is free.

I fired mine up and it seems to work fine and as expected.

I did find out and confirmed in other POSTS that this REX C100 PID displays temperature in degrees Celsius ONLY. It doesn't do Fahrenheit.

If you want Fahrenheit, choose another unit.

 
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Old 07-28-2013, 01:54 PM   #104
ferari12
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Aug 2011
haifa, israel
Posts: 6

I bought the first unit (C100) about two years ago and it didn't have an SSR. I had to open it up, remove the physical relay and wire the connections closed so it could output to an SSR. It wasn't difficult and I posted detailed instructions with pictures earlier in this thread. It may have changed. I don't have any experience with the C700.

 
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Old 07-28-2013, 01:56 PM   #105
ferari12
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Aug 2011
haifa, israel
Posts: 6

Here are the instructions:
http://www.mediafire.com/download/bb...lpsbo/c100.pdf

 
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Old 08-01-2013, 01:44 AM   #106
mattd2
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Sep 2009
Papamoa, New Zealand
Posts: 3,723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucio View Post
anyone has ever tried these ones? They appear to have a SSR included.


http://dx.com/p/c100-ssr-digital-tem...e-black-137496


http://dx.com/p/c700-ssr-output-temp...r-black-149595
The ones in the link do not seem to have an SSR included as far as I can tell, just seem to have an output suitable to run an SSR (maybe).
DX can get some good deals, but you do take a risk with the extreame lack of information

 
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Old 10-25-2013, 09:05 PM   #107
RoGrrr
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Oct 2013
Posts: 2

What I don't understand is why remove the relay ? I don't know how much drive the SSR requires but why not pick off the +5VDC in the PID and connect it to the N.O. set of contacts so when the PID CALLS FOR SSR enable, there is +5 to drive it.

 
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:22 PM   #108
mattd2
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Sep 2009
Papamoa, New Zealand
Posts: 3,723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoGrrr View Post
What I don't understand is why remove the relay ? I don't know how much drive the SSR requires but why not pick off the +5VDC in the PID and connect it to the N.O. set of contacts so when the PID CALLS FOR SSR enable, there is +5 to drive it.
Because a mechanical relay is not rated for quick switching and will fail prematurly (I'm sure I calculated the life of the mech relay to still be about 3 years based on the normal 10,000 operations most are rated for!)

 
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:28 PM   #109
alien
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Apr 2012
Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 1,235
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+1 I removed the relay on my Watlow PID and use the output to drive an SSR. It's the way to go.

 
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:48 PM   #110
RoGrrr
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Oct 2013
Posts: 2

If you're switching rated current, yes, the relay might fail. 10,000 ops ? I'd say they will operate well beyond that, especially if you're simply switching milliamps. But go ahead and remove it if it makes you feel any better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mattd2 View Post
Because a mechanical relay is not rated for quick switching and will fail prematurly (I'm sure I calculated the life of the mech relay to still be about 3 years based on the normal 10,000 operations most are rated for!)

 
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