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Old 06-23-2011, 05:00 PM   #1
Thekeez
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Default HWD heating element

I am trying to get my E-keggle up and running and I have a question about the type of heating element to use. Someone has a brand new 3500 watt HWD element that said I can have for free. Is it okay to use a HWD? I have seen most people use a low density is there any big difference besides blowing the HWD if it's not in water?


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Old 06-23-2011, 05:03 PM   #2
wildwest450
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From what im told, the hwd will blow real quick if not submerged. Of course it's not good to run either dry.

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Old 06-23-2011, 05:08 PM   #3
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It is better to use a ULWD element (or at least a LWD) element.

I have only used an ULWD element, but bought it based on the risk of scorching the wort with the HWD element.
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Old 06-23-2011, 05:11 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howabouttheiris View Post
I have only used an ULWD element, but bought it based on the risk of scorching the wort with the HWD element.
That myth has actually been debunked.

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Old 06-23-2011, 05:16 PM   #5
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Will a 3500 watt element be enough for a 10 gallon batch boil?
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Old 06-23-2011, 05:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildwest450 View Post
That myth has actually been debunked.
Yes, the risk of scorching wort (myth) is greatly exaggerated, but there can still be significant color (browning) formation from the use of HWD elements if the heat output is not properly controlled.

Personally, I would only use HWD elements in the HLT.
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Old 06-23-2011, 05:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildwest450 View Post
That myth has actually been debunked.

_

OK... I retract my comment.

However... When doing a late extract addition, I would prefer to pour liquid extract onto a hot ULWD element vs a very hot HWD element.
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Old 06-23-2011, 06:22 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thekeez View Post
Will a 3500 watt element be enough for a 10 gallon batch boil?
Imo yes, for the boil. I have a 4500 watt that needs to be cranked way down once the boil starts. A controller of some sort is a must.


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Old 06-23-2011, 06:28 PM   #9
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Yeah I want to get a controller running but I'm low in cash at the moment. Any way to run the boil without one? This may seem like a stupid question but can you run the element through a dimmer switch and gauge the power from that? Temporarily till I get a controller set up?
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Old 06-23-2011, 06:43 PM   #10
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No dimmer switches that are cheap and readily available are rated for 3500w. If a controller is not possible at the moment, I would suggest trying the 3500w element running at 100% without a controller. Please report back w/ your findings.


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