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Old 06-18-2011, 08:48 PM   #1
ChandlerBang
 
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What is the best way to drill or cut a copper manifold for an MLT? I think holes small enough would be annoying to drill, but how many effin slots would I have to cut for that to work? A million? I'm planning on using 1/2 copper and then slot the bottom half or third I guess. Thoughts?
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Old 06-18-2011, 09:06 PM   #2
CrazedArmadillo
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I just built a 1/2" copper manifold (48 qt rectangular cooler) a few weeks ago, and I used a standard hacksaw to cut slots. I made the cuts every 1/2" on the long pipes only (Palmer's book said this spacing would be sufficient). As long as you have a good way of clamping the pipe down while you're cutting, it shouldn't take too long. I have not used the MLT yet, so I can't comment on how it works.

 
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Old 06-19-2011, 04:25 PM   #3
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A dremel tool with a cut-off wheel would zip through it like a dream. Just use a larger one so your not putting them in at 45 dgree angles

 
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Old 06-19-2011, 04:41 PM   #4
JohnMc
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I did both of mine (5 gal. Rubbermaid and 100 qt rectangular) with a hack saw while watching TV. I have a dremel, but since the hack saw is slower, it's more controllable in my hands. Plus, the slits are a little bit wider, which fits my personal bias. My cuts are 2-4 mm apart. It was quite a few nights of TV. Works well, FWIW.

 
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:47 PM   #5
bottlebomber
 
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Im going to be doing this soon myself... does anyone have a link for the best hardware to get as far as a valve? Also, what do you use to hold the copper together? Solder probably isn't best right?

 
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:53 PM   #6
Mike3701
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+1 for the demel, it will be alot faster then a hacksaw.I tried both and it works great.

 
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:57 PM   #7
jeepinjeepin
 
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I am thinking about reworking my 5 gallon water cooler MLT with copper tubing. My plan is to drill fairly large holes and sleeve it with stainless braid. It's still a bazooka tube style but will be a fixed coil covering nearly the whole bottom of the MLT.
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:59 PM   #8
JohnMc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bottlebomber View Post
Im going to be doing this soon myself... does anyone have a link for the best hardware to get as far as a valve? Also, what do you use to hold the copper together? Solder probably isn't best right?
My parts are held together by friction fit, you can solder or not. Some folks tap (just a tap!) the end of the pipe to bend it a little so the friction fit is tighter, I didn't bother.
The type of valve is your choice. I've used just a plain old tubing clamp to pinch the tubing shut, no per se valve.

 
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Old 06-20-2011, 01:02 PM   #9
ChandlerBang
 
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Make sure to use "lead free" solder. I have so many fittings in mine that I think it will be difficult to manage without some of the connections soldered. I'm going to make a DIY thread when it is done.
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Old 06-20-2011, 02:59 PM   #10
Coldies
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On my 5 gallon cooler I did it with a hand hacksaw. Took a good 2-3 hours to build the whole thing and my hands were like rubber when I was done, sucked. I spaced them about 1/4. On my 10 gallon cooler I used a dremel with the same spacing and it only took about 1-2 hours and that included boiling the pipes and attaching it to my MT. You can pick up a dremel at Home Depot for around $70.00 I didn't solder anything for easy cleaning.

 
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