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Old 06-13-2011, 06:18 PM   #1
bellinmi88
 
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Has anyone tried using SCH 80 CPVC for a RIMS tube? I have seen YouTube videos of people using PVC for their plumbing so I figured if normal white PVC works why wouldn't SCH 80.

I know SCH 80 says it is temp rated to 140 F but that is based on a PSI threshold. Since this would be a low pressure setup could it work at 170F without distorting from the heat?

According to this spec sheet CPVC from this particular company has a temp rating of 200F, well within the limits of a RIMS setup.

Since most of the plumbing is hidden anyway, you're not really losing any BLING factor. CPVC also has better thermal characteristics and is NSF approved.

Thoughts anyone?

 
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Old 06-13-2011, 09:52 PM   #2
eric_pwb
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This was my original thought as well, to make the tube from 2" sch80 cpvc, but after weighing the options I decided to spend the $25 extra dollars and build it from Stainless.
The most important factor to me was in the event of a stuck mash the liquid in the tube would exceed boiling almost instantly, in which case I would not only be dumping out a batch of beer, but also pitching the tube in the garage as IMHO I doubt it would survive the temperature and the potential element dry fire.

 
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Old 06-13-2011, 10:37 PM   #3
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Wouldn't a PID prevent that by turning off when the temp in the tube went above the set Mash temp? I priced Stainless and it came out to $177 for a 2" tube versus $70 for SCH80 CPvC.
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:13 PM   #4
eric_pwb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bellinmi88 View Post
Wouldn't a PID prevent that by turning off when the temp in the tube went above the set Mash temp?
Someone correct me if I am wrong, A PID would shut off when above the mash temp, but that reaction is delayed slightly by the reaction time of the temp sensor/thermocouple, and the reaction time of sensor also depends upon the placement of the sensor in relation to the heating element.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bellinmi88 View Post
I priced Stainless and it came out to $177 for a 2" tube versus $70 for SCH80 CPvC.
OUCH! My tube consists of a 2x6 nipple, 2 2" tees, 3 1/2" x 2" reducing bushings, and 1 1-1/2" x 2" red. bushing, all of that plus 2 1/2 close nipples and 2 1/2 couplings cost me $87 CAD, so for me it was an easy decision.

 
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:17 PM   #5
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Where did you buy from...that is pretty much the same as I priced out. Was is 304/316 stainless? I priced it up at www.murrayequipment.com
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:24 PM   #6
Coldies
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric_pwb View Post
Someone correct me if I am wrong, A PID would shut off when above the mash temp, but that reaction is delayed slightly by the reaction time of the temp sensor/thermocouple, and the reaction time of sensor also depends upon the placement of the sensor in relation to the heating element..
Also add in the fact that your wort would just be sitting in that tube with no flow at all. POOF!

 
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:50 PM   #7
eric_pwb
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Mine tube is all 316, I was lucky enough to find a local company to purchase from, here in Regina, SK. They are called TS&M supply. I don't think they normally sell to walk-ins, they usually supply oil field companies and the local refinery.

 
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Old 06-14-2011, 12:35 AM   #8
mattd2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coldies View Post
Also add in the fact that your wort would just be sitting in that tube with no flow at all. POOF!
This is why the PID won't shut off with no flow. The sensor is mounted a bit downstream from the tube so if there is no flow the hot wort never reaches to sensor to tell it the wort is getting to hot.

 
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Old 06-14-2011, 12:38 AM   #9
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Ahhhh having a connection helps. I think you will find that most people are spending closer to $200 for a completed 2" SS RIMS tube. CPVC is safe up to 200F under zero pressure. I would think the sensor would shut down the element before it changed more then 40 degrees....otherwise what is the sense in using a PID to begin with.
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Old 06-14-2011, 01:00 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattd2

This is why the PID won't shut off with no flow. The sensor is mounted a bit downstream from the tube so if there is no flow the hot wort never reaches to sensor to tell it the wort is getting to hot.
The sensor would be mounted in the tube within the downstream flow, right in front of the bushing that takes it from 2" to 1/2".

For the record, I would prefer SS just exploring all options as this will be my first (and I am sure not my last) build. The first one does not have to be all nice and shinny.
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