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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > New Brutus with mods
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Old 06-10-2011, 12:19 AM   #1
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Default New Brutus with mods

I've been researching long enough...now it's time to build. I am going to need some help.
Specs: Must be able to store Brutus in garage with cars parked.
Should be semi-automated. (user friendly)
Built from scrap metal in shop.
Portable from garage to back patio (depending on season)
Direct fired MLT and HERMS (options)
Ability to use LP propane and convert to Natural Gas
Goal: Reduce brew time, and be able to enjoy a beer while brewing. I usually have to wait until the yeast is pitched.

I have been inspired by the many Brutus builds found here on HomeBrewTalk.com
This beer is for you.

One build in particular caught my eye. jlandin built the blue Brutus with some very nice modifications. In particular, I like the ability to store the kettles beneath the burners while not in use.

I have scored many parts for the build already. I am afraid to add up how many $$$ I have spent so far, so I will save that for later in the build thread.


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Old 06-10-2011, 12:28 AM   #2
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Here are my kettles.
They are not keggles. Originally they were used to store and dispense liquid nitrogen. The valve body was removed, and handles were welded on at the top.
They measure 16" in diameter and are 25" tall.
The shelf that they are sitting in front of is going to be removed. This is the future storage spot for the Brutus. The shelf above the Brutus is my fermentation cabinet.

The lids came from Ace Mart Restaurant Supply in Dallas

I purchased the Kettles from Foreman's General Store in Colleyville, Texas.



Reason: additional info
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Old 06-10-2011, 01:17 AM   #3
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I have started building the frame. I chose to build it from 1.5" steel. 3/16" thickness.
60" wide x 20" deep x39" tall including 4" casters.
(fuzzy iPhone pics)






I am building this Brutus during breaks and lunch time at work.
I am using 2 each BG-14 LP burners. One for the HLT and one for the Boiler. I am also adding a smaller 6" banjo burner under the MLT.

I made a wind block / burner mount out of .050" SS. 6" tall for the big burners. 4.5" tall for the MLT burner. The burner height can be adjusted in 1" increments.




The wires on the bracket, are the direct spark ignition and sense wires. (more on this later)



]



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Old 06-11-2011, 01:51 AM   #4
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I am curious...Why do most of the Brutus brew stands have gas valves for the HLT and MLT, but not the boiler?

Would it be better to control all three burners?

Why are most of the gas valves I have seen used, are 24V? Is it cost?

Will 120V valves work?

Has anyone tried to Direct Spark the burner, without a pilot light?
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Old 06-16-2011, 11:12 PM   #5
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Default Gas Beam

I got some work on the Brutus today.
The gas beam was completed last week. Today I leak checked, and installed the beam on the back side of the system.

The supply port is on the lower side.
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Old 06-16-2011, 11:22 PM   #6
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Jealous!

Wish I could work on my brewstand on breaks... frikken awesome man.
Sub'd.

Cheers
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Old 06-16-2011, 11:33 PM   #7
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Default Tippy Dump

I also installed the Tippy Dump.
This one is different.
I made a clamp collar from .041 stainless.

Then I made two spindles that will be welded on at 180 from each other to the collar.








Then I made two identical arms that are hinged in the front side of the system.












When I dump the grain from the MLT the arms will raise to the stop on the frame, and the MLT will be raised enough to rotate and dump the spent grain safely into the trash can.




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Old 06-17-2011, 01:45 AM   #8
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Good looking build so far, as to the 24V valves that has become an industry standard voltage for heating and air conditioning systems which makes the high volume low voltage valves the cheapest and most plentiful. The direct spark is a good idea if the burner flame is never adjusted, changing the flame level usually results in the flame sensor loosing contact with enough of the flame to keep working. With spark ignition you can use high pressure solenoids to control high pressure burners, and pilots if using adjustable firing levels.
The pilot burner has the advantage of a constant high intensity flame regardless of main burner flame level and usually is quite reliable. With the 10" burners you can mount the pilot burner between the spokes of the burner facing the flame diffuser inward with a right/left hand pattern tip to direct the flame over the burner openings.
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Old 06-17-2011, 01:47 AM   #9
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Love the dump system. Very nice work!
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Old 06-17-2011, 02:38 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kladue View Post
Good looking build so far, as to the 24V valves that has become an industry standard voltage for heating and air conditioning systems which makes the high volume low voltage valves the cheapest and most plentiful. The direct spark is a good idea if the burner flame is never adjusted, changing the flame level usually results in the flame sensor loosing contact with enough of the flame to keep working. With spark ignition you can use high pressure solenoids to control high pressure burners, and pilots if using adjustable firing levels.
The pilot burner has the advantage of a constant high intensity flame regardless of main burner flame level and usually is quite reliable. With the 10" burners you can mount the pilot burner between the spokes of the burner facing the flame diffuser inward with a right/left hand pattern tip to direct the flame over the burner openings.
Thank you Kladue for your response.

As I mentioned...I got these gas valves with all of the goodies for $$Free$$.
That being said, would I be better off, and bite the bullet to purchase 24V valves with pilot light assy?

Why is it that most brewers do not have a gas control (Honeywell) on the boiler?


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