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Old 06-09-2011, 03:21 AM   #11
jsguitar
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P-J,

The 25 amp DPDT switch listed in the diagram doesn't come up at Mouser. I'm guessing it's not available anymore. Do you have another reccommendation?

Thanks for your help.

 
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Old 06-09-2011, 03:46 AM   #12
P-J
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Click this link: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine....rd=633-S333-RO

Or this one: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/NKK...e-Switch-2TPF8

The second one has a flattened lever that is a little longer than average. If you have a Grainger local to you, you might want to go in and see what you are getting and/or see your other options.

Hope this helps.

 
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Old 06-09-2011, 04:10 AM   #13
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Hey thanks P-J!

I was reading the S as an 8. That explains it. I'm blind.

 
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Old 06-09-2011, 04:19 AM   #14
P-J
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsguitar View Post
Hey thanks P-J!

I was reading the S as an 8. That explains it. I'm blind.
You are more than welcome. ++ you made me howl with laughter with your reply.

Thanks!

 
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Old 06-11-2011, 09:57 PM   #15
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Ok,

So I decided to jump in and build this controller as designed by P-J. I ordered a ton a stuff that I haven't received yet for the box and the heater elements. I did get my Auberins.com order of a project box, PID, SSR, RTD, and RTD panel connector.

After looking at a few builds using the Auber box, and finding that I had a large rectangular heat sink, I decided to mount it on the outside, on top of the box ala Kal's method. So today I thought through where the main components would be and decided where the SSR should be and cut a hole for it and cut my oversized heat sink down to size with a dremel /reinforced cutting disk. Took a while to do.

The only issue I see with mounting the SSR on top is that to open the box I'll need to have plenty of wire going to the SSR and some sort of stress relief so I don't yank the wires off when I take the top off.

Here's some pics:
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Old 06-11-2011, 10:00 PM   #16
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Some more:

Nothing's actually mounted yet. It's just sitting there for the time being.


Ok, time for some homebrew.
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Old 06-11-2011, 10:11 PM   #17
P-J
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It's looking realy nice. I wish you every success with your project and if I can help please ask.

P-J

Edit: An after thought: Re: the long wires going to the lid. No worries about it. Just leave them long enough so that you can lay the lid upside down next to the base. Zip tie or tape the wires so that it becomes a cable (sort of).

 
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Old 06-11-2011, 10:14 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-J View Post
It's looking realy nice. I wish you every success with your project and if I can help please ask.

P-J
Thanks P-J! I'll most definitely have questions along the way. I appreciate your help!

 
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Old 06-11-2011, 10:25 PM   #19
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Quote:
Edit: An after thought: Re: the long wires going to the lid. No worries about it. Just leave them long enough so that you can lay the lid upside down next to the base. Zip tie or tape the wires so that it becomes a cable (sort of).
Will do, thanks.

 
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Old 06-13-2011, 04:38 AM   #20
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P-J, I've decided that I'd like to add a single indicator light to show when power is going to either one of the elements. Can you amend the diagram and suggest a light or two if you get the time?

Thanks!

 
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