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Old 05-21-2011, 09:20 PM   #1
Nwalesmith
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Default Looking for grain mill motor advice

I just bought a new monster mill for a DIY mill project. I am looking for recommendations on motors. I would prefer to not use pulleys if at all possible. Suggestions/advice welcome!!!

Thanks all.


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Old 05-21-2011, 09:29 PM   #2
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Take a look at this one:
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=5-1098
It is 177 RPM so you won't need pulleys and belts.


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Old 05-21-2011, 09:30 PM   #3
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I (as well as others here) use this:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...tname=electric

Mount it, add a coupler, and you're set. Some (it seems mostly folks that haven't used it) say there isn't enough torque. I've never had problems on my 2 roller 2" monster mill.
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Old 05-21-2011, 10:07 PM   #4
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Thanks guys, care to share a picture of your rigs? Also, I have the MM3, should I be concern about the torque...?
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Old 05-21-2011, 10:26 PM   #5
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yes I tried it with my MM3-2.0 and it did not have enough torque
I ended with a 1000rpm motor and a 2"x9.75 sheeve running at 230RPM
the 1/3HP blower motors don't have enough torque to start with grain in hopper but has no problem once running
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Old 05-21-2011, 11:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henrythe9th View Post
yes I tried it with my MM3-2.0 and it did not have enough torque
I ended with a 1000rpm motor and a 2"x9.75 sheeve running at 230RPM
the 1/3HP blower motors don't have enough torque to start with grain in hopper but has no problem once running
Henry, can you point me to where you bought your motor? What torque did the one you purchased have?
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Old 05-21-2011, 11:33 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nwalesmith View Post
Thanks guys, care to share a picture of your rigs? Also, I have the MM3, should I be concern about the torque...?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henrythe9th View Post
yes I tried it with my MM3-2.0 and it did not have enough torque
I ended with a 1000rpm motor and a 2"x9.75 sheeve running at 230RPM
the 1/3HP blower motors don't have enough torque to start with grain in hopper but has no problem once running
IMHO it should have enough torque to run your mill. There is something peculiar about this motor. When it was originally marketed it was shown as a CCW motor. After a while they discovered that it would start and run in either direction so they show their wiring diagrams that way.

Now the truth of the matter about this motor. It IS designed to operate with maximum torque in the CCW direction (when viewed from wire connection end [opposite the shaft]). When reversed the torque is seriously diminished.

Note: This is due to the method used in placing the windings within the motor stator. The white wire (L1) connects to the common connection of the two coils within the motor. This is commonly connected to the neutral conductor. The blue conductor comes from the run winding within the motor and is connected to L2 or the hot conductor. This "run" winding is made from a single wrapped coil with a larger copper wire size than used in the start winding. Now - the coil that is delivered on the black wire is a double coil (2 smaller wires wrapped in parallel) of copper wire that is significantly smaller in size than the run winding. This is the "start" winding and it is powered through the capacitor so that it has a slight phase shift in the power delivered. (that sets the direction of rotation and provides the torque to initiate the motor start)

Now: when the motor is reversed (CW) the overall torque of the motor is seriously diminished as it will be running through the small wire double coil circuit in the windings.

How to get around this? Simply rearrange the rollers in your mill (flip the rollers) so that when milling your grain they will be driven in the correct direction for the motor that you have chosen. You would only use the reverse switch to clear a jam (stone?) while milling.

Here is a wiring diagram that might help you: The double throw switch is shown in the 'run' position i.e. CCW.



Anyway, I hope this give some degree of understanding about this motor.
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Old 05-22-2011, 12:32 AM   #8
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I have purchased 2 of your gear motors and they do work very well on 2 roller mills with 1 or 1.5" rollers, but it just wont turn a MM3 2.0 3 2" rollers I tried it both ways ccw and cw believe me I did not like having to rebuild my table after it wouldn't crush Carapils (the hardest grain ever)

here's a pic excuse me I ended up with a 1/2 motor,, blower motors run @ 1000 RPMs

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Old 05-22-2011, 12:11 PM   #9
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Hey-

I have the MM3 and avoided that motor with the advisement of Fred Francis (of MM). He directed me to get something with over 50 in-Lb of torque. Also, his advise was that as close to 175 RPM, the better. I was going to go for 233 RPM, but he said I'd like 175 better.

With my install, I wanted to mount the motor directly behind the mill and in the same vertical orientation for space reasons. Mine is installed in a pull-out shelf inside my brew table, at the right height so that it rests on the paint bucket when extended. It's a 100lb capacity shelf mechanism and I'm probably at around 80 lb with a full hopper. You can see it in operation on the video below (I'm still gussying my rig up a little).


So, the thing not to fret about is the actual motor. You can find ebay deals on 1725 RPM motors easy. Mine was $40 for a GE 1/3 HP motor (I wouldn't go below 1/4 HP). What you need then to avoid using pulleys is a gear reducer. I have a 10:1 gear reducer and this gives me 100 lb torque w/ the 1/3 hp motor. My gearbox was $100 new from the factory. It's aluminum, so very light. The motor is a beast and very heavy. To marry them together, you'll need a Lovejoy connector that fits whatever shaft sizes you have. You can see in the video that there was '''just''' enough room to install these all together. There's probably like 1/4" in between the hopper and the motor housing.

Here's the link. I have the RA40 model at 10:1 ratio reduction. (I was going to get the 7.5:1 ratio to give me 233 RPM and Fred advised not doing that).

http://www.groschopp.com/Products/Ge...9/Default.aspx

They have some going on ebay too, and that's a guy at the factory. If you want to install anything like I did (with a right angle), I highly recommend this unit as opposed to searching forever for a right angle gearmotor. You'll never find one with the right power and speed ratings. And, when you do it will be expensive. Even used. Actually, even used gearbox reducers are expensive, and all the ones I found require a separate bracket to mount vertically like I did.

This is the only one I found after a few months searching that comes stock with mounting holes in every direction including vertical. A good deal at $100.
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Old 05-22-2011, 03:54 PM   #10
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After watching that video, I can only say that the craftsmanship on your mill setup is.....awesome. It's like a work of art. And I say that as a confirmed Corona mill / electric drill user who has no plans to change.


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