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Old 03-14-2007, 09:47 PM   #1
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Default electric heating element


I have been working on an immersion heater for my system. I want it to be used in a variety of functions and so I am making it with 1.5 tri-clover connections.




It will be able to attach to either of my kettles to assist in heating brewing water or whatever I want to heat. It will also fit in another unit that can be attached to my pump to create a RIM unit.



This unit is the same piece I use as my hop-back and is actually an in-line filter.















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Old 03-14-2007, 10:19 PM   #2
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I know you can run a 240 element on 110 and I believe you end up with 1/4 the original rating. Anybody know for sure?


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Old 03-14-2007, 10:45 PM   #3
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That is correct.

If you need more electrical calculations go here and scroll down to electric heat calculator.

http://suburb.semo.net/jthornton/BeerHome.htm
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Old 03-14-2007, 10:52 PM   #4
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Thanks, cool spread sheets and info pages
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Old 01-01-2012, 07:58 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewpastor View Post

I have been working on an immersion heater for my system. I want it to be used in a variety of functions and so I am making it with 1.5 tri-clover connections.




It will be able to attach to either of my kettles to assist in heating brewing water or whatever I want to heat. It will also fit in another unit that can be attached to my pump to create a RIM unit.



This unit is the same piece I use as my hop-back and is actually an in-line filter.













Is that adapter 1 inch not or straight thread?
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Old 01-01-2012, 08:19 PM   #6
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Here is another solution.
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Old 01-01-2012, 08:23 PM   #7
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Here is another solution.
I was also contemplating just using a 2 inch triclover end cap. I could bore a hole to match a screw in style element and use a 1 inch stainless nut on the inside of the end cap. It'll cost me about 30 bucks for the parts.
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Old 01-01-2012, 08:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy85 View Post
I was also contemplating just using a 2 inch triclover end cap. I could bore a hole to match a screw in style element and use a 1 inch stainless nut on the inside of the end cap. It'll cost me about 30 bucks for the parts.
I'm thinking the same thing.. it would just be a weldless fitting into a 2" triclamp cap instead of a kettle wall. You could remove the element and put another cap on if you wanted to brew with propane.
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Old 01-01-2012, 09:47 PM   #9
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I think being able to remove the element completely will really help make cleaning easier. I have the keg tops left over from making my kettle an mash tun, so I figure I should be able to cut off the keg coupler and use it like a triclover ferrule. So as to not have to buy that piece as well. That will save me $6.
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Old 01-01-2012, 10:20 PM   #10
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Well, maybe this is a compromise if cost is an issue. I'd rather only spend $30, but this is cool too.
Element Guard - Detailed item view - Copper Parts for DIY Home Distillers


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