dinertime
Well-Known Member
I am having a hard time wrapping my head around Burtonizing. From what I understand, "Burtonizing" is loosely defined as the addition of calcium salts (typically gypsum, CaSO4) to balance the calcium hardness and the alkalinity to allow one to brew pale colored beers.
I readily admit that I still have only a cursory understanding of this stuff, and I am probably not thinking about all the variables. I am going to go through my rudimentary understanding and bring up questions. I would greatly appreciate help answering these questions.
From what I can gather from a number of sources, the idea is that balancing the calcium and alkalinity matches the Burton water profile, so that would allow one to hit target mash pH with only light colored malts. But that doesn't make sense to me, since all of that carbonate will (simplistically) keep the pH buffered way too high. There has to be a way to bring down the pH.
I figure there are 2 ways of dropping the pH:
1) Adding acid. There are a number of ways of doing this:
a)Sauermalz - as frequently prescribed by A.J. Delange
b)lactic/mineral acid - same idea as sauermalz, but directly lowers pH of water
c)acid rest - Is this all you would really need, instead of adding extra acid? Or do you only get the desired effect from using certain malts?
2) Precipitating calcium carbonate, a la adding lime to increase calcium concentration. This, from what I understand, will reduce hardness (buffering capacity) and allow the light colored grains alone to drop the pH to desired levels. However, if this were really all that was going on with Burton waters, then wouldn't they have this huge amount of chalk at the bottom of their HLTs all the time? I guess what I am asking is isn't the concentration of CaCO3 in Burton water WAY above the Ksp? How does it stay in solution?
Another way of asking these questions is, if you took real Burton water and only used light crystal malts and base malts and a single-step infusion, would you hit the target pH? Don't you have to use some other techniques (e.g., removing precipitated lime or acid rest) for reducing the mash pH?
I readily admit that I still have only a cursory understanding of this stuff, and I am probably not thinking about all the variables. I am going to go through my rudimentary understanding and bring up questions. I would greatly appreciate help answering these questions.
From what I can gather from a number of sources, the idea is that balancing the calcium and alkalinity matches the Burton water profile, so that would allow one to hit target mash pH with only light colored malts. But that doesn't make sense to me, since all of that carbonate will (simplistically) keep the pH buffered way too high. There has to be a way to bring down the pH.
I figure there are 2 ways of dropping the pH:
1) Adding acid. There are a number of ways of doing this:
a)Sauermalz - as frequently prescribed by A.J. Delange
b)lactic/mineral acid - same idea as sauermalz, but directly lowers pH of water
c)acid rest - Is this all you would really need, instead of adding extra acid? Or do you only get the desired effect from using certain malts?
2) Precipitating calcium carbonate, a la adding lime to increase calcium concentration. This, from what I understand, will reduce hardness (buffering capacity) and allow the light colored grains alone to drop the pH to desired levels. However, if this were really all that was going on with Burton waters, then wouldn't they have this huge amount of chalk at the bottom of their HLTs all the time? I guess what I am asking is isn't the concentration of CaCO3 in Burton water WAY above the Ksp? How does it stay in solution?
Another way of asking these questions is, if you took real Burton water and only used light crystal malts and base malts and a single-step infusion, would you hit the target pH? Don't you have to use some other techniques (e.g., removing precipitated lime or acid rest) for reducing the mash pH?