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Old 05-16-2011, 08:50 PM   #11
brewtime
 
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Apr 2009
sykesville md
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Quote:
Originally Posted by checker View Post
Excellent, thanks for the replies all.

The forum deserves an intro post from me...I'll do that shortly.

WRT the BM system, I'm getting wretched efficiencies, 60% or less. I'm using my traditional 1.3qt/# of grain and w/the false bottom, barely get liquid coverage of the grain. I suspect this is causing problems as I'm not getting the whirlpool effect and likely just channeling down the sides. I'll try a looser mash next time. Thoughts and what efficiencies are you getting?

.
let me first say i do not have a BM but I do have their mashtun I would bump you volume to 1.5 qt per pound I have heard other user say that they needed at least 4 inches above the grain bed during the mash.

 
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Old 05-16-2011, 09:48 PM   #12
GilaMinumBeer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by checker View Post
Excellent, thanks for the replies all.

The forum deserves an intro post from me...I'll do that shortly.

WRT the BM system, I'm getting wretched efficiencies, 60% or less. I'm using my traditional 1.3qt/# of grain and w/the false bottom, barely get liquid coverage of the grain. I suspect this is causing problems as I'm not getting the whirlpool effect and likely just channeling down the sides. I'll try a looser mash next time. Thoughts and what efficiencies are you getting?

Does your return hose entrain air? Mine does and I need to add a hose clamp to prevent this. The stub on the inside of the MT is short and clamping the hose is difficult. Do you have this problem and if so, what's your solution?

Our boiler burner is anemic at best. The slightest breeze sends it yellow and sooty and kills my boil. I've talked to sabco and they suggested increasing the pressure on the regulator (I did, marginally helped) and then perhaps reaming the orifices (brewing is such a naughty hobby!). I understand that older BMs were high pressure, jet engine type burners. Ours is low pressure, quiet. I'm considering replacing the regulator w/a high pressure one. Thoughts?

We also purchased the chill wizard. Works great but the motor or pump is very noisy. I'm wondering if this is typical of the unit or if we got a bum chiller.

Thanks for the guidance. I'm sure once I get the kinks out, I'll love the system. As it is, I just want to go home and brew on my keggle/gott.
I do the approx 2" and generally this comes to 1.4/1.5 qts/lb. Been getting 80+% efficiency into the boiler.

I also have the CW. Yes, the pump is noisey.

I have the jet engine burners. Swapped out orifices for NG and they work better now than they did on propane with a adjustible reg capable of 30psi.

Get some chimney flue adapters and work them as little as possible to fit in under the cans. Took a notch and a screw for mine in the flue adpaters.

Whalah, built in wind screens.

Also, if you do the above, make sure you drill a hole for lighting the burners BEFORE brew day, Mmkay.



Puff, Puff, Pass, and don't lip it b!tches.

 
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:02 PM   #13
checker
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Apr 2011
phoenix, az
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Thanks GMB,

We built a sheet metal box that sits under the burner but it's open on the inlet side. It also sits on the ground so there's a gap between the fixture and the screen. I'm assuming that the windscreen/flue adapter solution is attached to the underside of the fixture. I'll have my guys fab something similar. Thanks.

Can you comment on the return hose as well? Perhaps I missed a piece during assembly.

 
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Old 05-17-2011, 03:33 AM   #14
GilaMinumBeer
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What about the return hose?

Lest it's changed it's a hose, clamped over a ferrule welded to the inside of the tun.

I just let it cross the tun and then loop it around the outside edge and let it lay over top of the grain bed.

Yup. I attached it to the underside. I also mounted a water filter and water hook to my rig. Have a look in me gallery. I have some snaps there.

And some clutter.

 
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Old 05-17-2011, 04:32 PM   #15
checker
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Apr 2011
phoenix, az
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Thanks, I'll check your pics. Our hose is simply a slip fit. I added a typical worm drive hose clamp to prevent the air entrainment one gets if it's not clamped...it's not the easiest spot in which to operate a screw driver. I'm suspecting I missed a part specific for this task...I'll go review the install instruction and my collection of odd bits left over. Thanks again.

 
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Old 05-18-2011, 03:24 AM   #16
ChrisMichels
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Jul 2010
Fox River Grove, IL
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I just picked up a complete 1st generation brew magic system off craigslist for 600 bucks. I'm sure I'm going to be looking for a bit of help as well.

 
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:24 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by checker View Post
Thanks, I'll check your pics. Our hose is simply a slip fit. I added a typical worm drive hose clamp to prevent the air entrainment one gets if it's not clamped...it's not the easiest spot in which to operate a screw driver. I'm suspecting I missed a part specific for this task...I'll go review the install instruction and my collection of odd bits left over. Thanks again.
Nah. The hose clamp sells for $5994. The rest is a bonus for a dollar.

All mine has is a cheap clamp. Turn the screw down or sideways to make it easier.

 
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Old 05-18-2011, 10:56 AM   #18
RoadKing
 
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Bayville, N.J.
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Did you account for the water under false bottom before before adding your 1.3 Qt. Per Lb?
I looked at a pic of thier bottom and it looks like it could be a gallon plus.

 
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Old 05-18-2011, 06:42 PM   #19
checker
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Apr 2011
phoenix, az
Posts: 16

The water to grain ratio would be independent of the dead space under the false bottom, no? I'm gathering that the false bottom along w/the design of the BM requires a ratio of 1.4 or 1.5qt water/# grain (in order to establish a whirlpool and maximize conversion and sugar extraction). My next session will target a bed that 1 to 2 inches below the liquid level.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadKing View Post
Did you account for the water under false bottom before before adding your 1.3 Qt. Per Lb?
I looked at a pic of thier bottom and it looks like it could be a gallon plus.

 
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:14 PM   #20
Catt22
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Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by checker View Post
I'm gathering that the false bottom along w/the design of the BM requires a ratio of 1.4 or 1.5qt water/# grain (in order to establish a whirlpool and maximize conversion and sugar extraction). My next session will target a bed that 1 to 2 inches below the liquid level.
I don't think establishing a whirpool is really what you want to do. So long as you don't majorly screw up somewhere, the mash will convert no problem. I no longer give it a second thought. An inch or two of water above the grain bed will be fine. All you need to do is trickle in more sparge water to balance what you drain from the MT. It doesn't make much difference how you deliver the sparge water to the MT and it doesn't have to create a visible whirlpool. If it does, you are probably sparging too fast and that will definitely affect your efficiency (sugar extraction). You will quickly figure out the best water to grain ration for your system. Anywhere between one and two quarts per pound should work just fine. If your mash is too thick, just add some more water. Not much you can do if it's too thin, but unless you go extreme in that direction, it won't make much difference anyway. IOW, the water/grain ratio is not all that critical.

 
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