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Old 05-02-2011, 01:18 PM   #11
Oct 2010
Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 554
Liked 30 Times on 17 Posts

Originally Posted by P-J View Post
That is correct for dryer (30A) and range (50A) outlets prior to the last 2 major NEC updates. The neutral served the function of both the neutral and the ground conductor. The dryers and ranges both have 120V devices within them. Current code for new wiring to those appliances requires a 4 wire feed.
Im not sure that I agree 100% with you. The only real way to tell is if you pull out the outlet and check if you have a bare ground or neutral. Ive seen with older 240V 3 wire set ups black, white, and bare ground. The old code called for the white wire (neutral on 120) to be painted or marked because its actually the 120B. So essientially you have black 120A, white 120B, and bare ground.
Denny Conn - “The best beer possible with the least effort possible while having the most fun possible!”

Me - "Gun Control Means Using Both Hands."

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Old 12-13-2011, 08:38 PM   #12
Jul 2010
Warrenton, Virginia
Posts: 80
Liked 6 Times on 5 Posts

I finally completed work on my system. I made a few changes from the previous posts. I decided to run 4-wire from the panel to the GFI Spa Panel. I split off the dryer from there to it's outlet, then wired a GFI protected outlet in the GFI panel box.

A 20' 10/4 cable connects the GFI to the brewery panel. Here's an overview of the panel:

And Inside:

Wiring diagram:

The wiring might seem sort of convoluted, but that is because I was trying to accommodate several 24v components that I already had (contactors, LED indicators, power controller, Watlow PIDs, etc.).

I used a PWM (Walker's design - thanks man ) to control the boil because I was trying to get the system done cheaper. Then I came across the free temp controllers, so decided to incorporate them anyway. Eventually I might swap over control to the temp controller. Also, the second temp controller is not in use, but it is wired up. Eventually I will use that to control a recirculation loop for mash temp control.

I figured out the total cost to be around $600. I also figured out how much it would have been if I had to source all of the freebie parts. That would have run it up to about $900 total.

I also did a temperature ramp test today. I took 10 gallons of water from 56F to boil in 50 minutes. That’s an average of just over 3 degrees/min. I was pretty happy with that. The best part was the ambient temp in the room after the boil test. It went from 66F to 70F. When I used to use propane, the ambient temp was more like 85-90F. That was really uncomfortable.

I have been working on this panel (obsessively) for the last several months. I am really looking forward to brewing on it now. But that will have to wait until January.

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Old 12-14-2011, 02:59 AM   #13
lschiavo's Avatar
Sep 2009
Upper Peninsula of..., Michigan
Posts: 4,872
Liked 1134 Times on 769 Posts

Looks pretty sharp.

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