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Old 05-03-2011, 10:41 PM   #11
malkore
 
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/off topic

Hopville sounds like a good idea for a facebook game. I"d play!

/on topic
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Old 05-03-2011, 11:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakemo View Post
Well... most recently, a Bert Grant's Perfect Porter clone. I've messed around a little bit with BeerSmith, but have had a very hard time making sure all of the grains are in there... I should probably put a little more effort into it, though. It's quite probable that Hopville just isn't as flexible as BeerSmith.

5# Light LME
12oz Chocolate Malt
10oz Crystal 40L
1.5oz Briess Cherrywood Smoked Malt
1oz Carafa III

Calc. OG 1.045 (1.040-1.047), measured 1.035
Calc. FG 1.012 (1.010-1.013)
Just the LME should give you 1.036, so I think you're probably right. The Hopville calculator isn't giving you a correct reading.
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Old 05-04-2011, 05:30 PM   #13
Jakemo
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I always kinda had a hunch, since the OG and abv would rise as I added in steeping grains... I just didn't really care enough to follow up on it... But when I start doing partial-mash, it'll be accurate I suppose.

It does get IBUs and color right, so that's cool...

 
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Old 05-06-2011, 07:59 PM   #14
Jakemo
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Now I'm confused; I went back and checked the recipes and measurements for my other batches. The hopville-calculated OG and the measured OG were usually pretty close to each other. My last one was within 2 points, and had 1.5 lbs of steeping grain. My imperial stout was even close and had like 3lbs of steeping grains...

What gives?

 
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:07 PM   #15
Jakemo
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Ba-bump ba-bump

 
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:19 PM   #16
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Not sure, but to get back on the water issue, I have heard it suggested to use distilled/RO water for extract. The idea is that the extract has minerals left in it from when it was originally wort. You don't want to add extra minerals to it.

Extract with steeping. I would still go with DI/RO.
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:53 PM   #17
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Excessive alkalinity in brewing water used with extracts will dull the flavor of the resulting beer. Brewing extract beers with DI/RO water is OK and the mineral profile of the original mashing water will be reproduced. That doesn't mean that the resulting water profile will be ideal for the beer you're brewing, but at least it won't have to fight the excess alkalinity if that is present in your tap water.

You can still add moderate amounts of either sulfate or chloride containing minerals to help produce the flavor characteristics in your extract beer when using DI/RO water. You should know the profile of your tap water before you begin adding any minerals in order to avoid overdosing the beer and creating soda-water beer.
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Old 05-12-2011, 02:28 PM   #18
Jakemo
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Awesome info, all. Thank you. So if, on my next batch, I wanted to reduce the LME by 1# and do a mini-mash to make up for that, could I add a tiny amount of LME to RO-DI water to get a good mineral content for mini-mashing? Or should I acquire the necessary minerals and salts to adjust the water chemistry?

Basically, I'm really trying to avoid using my tap water, I don't care for it at all. It doesn't taste very good, and I'm not sure I want to use it for my beer (haven't gotten a water profile yet tho)

 
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Old 05-12-2011, 02:31 PM   #19
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If you want minerals, why not buy spring water? Assuming your tap water has bad flavor of course.

 
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Old 05-12-2011, 02:35 PM   #20
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I could do that, I'll just have to check and see what's available.

The other reason I get RO-DI is it's $0.25 a gallon

 
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