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Old 05-02-2011, 11:23 AM   #21
pola0502ds
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HHP View Post
P-J

Thanks a bunch. I am going to build it just like this, although I may use Ohio-Ed's E-Stop circuit for the sheer bling factor of the on button and the satisfying clunk as the contactor throws...

Whats the E-stop?



 
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:24 AM   #22
pola0502ds
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Originally Posted by EarthBound View Post
I know whatcha mean. I'll be pretty much completely filling up the front of the enclosure, definitely completely filling up the right side of it, and using about a third of the left side. I will have it much worse than you did, but I know it's do-able.

If you could please post a pic of the interior. I'd like to see how bad it is.
Here are the pics.


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Old 05-02-2011, 11:25 AM   #23
pola0502ds
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It doesn't look that bad but trust me, it is. Because it's only 6" deep, the components on the panel make it impossible to add anything else when the door is shut. It makes things really hard to work with as well. Go 8" deep or deeper.

 
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:54 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pola0502ds View Post
It doesn't look that bad but trust me, it is. Because it's only 6" deep, the components on the panel make it impossible to add anything else when the door is shut. It makes things really hard to work with as well. Go 8" deep or deeper.
I was going to say - looks freakin' spacious compared to mine!
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Old 05-03-2011, 01:34 PM   #25
pola0502ds
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Trust me, because it's only 6" deep when you shut the door, the components on the door fill up the empty space you see on the inside of the box. There is absolutely no room what-so-ever to add anything else.

 
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Old 05-10-2011, 04:38 PM   #26
EarthBound
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pola and Cidah, I feel your pain!

Check out my current control panel and imagine fitting in what I'm about to fit in: I'll be installing 3 PIDs (SYL-2352), 3 SSRs, 4 DPST relays, a 120VAC to 24VAC xfmr, 3 TCs (for the PIDs), a timer (ASL-51), a timer reset button, an alarm indication light, an alarm buzzer, 4 alarms switches, another bus (the 120VAC Hot B Bus), a 4-position switch, and element indication lights (HLT, MLT, and BK), and a brewery label. The PIDs and timer will have to be mounted on the sides!

I know it'll be do-able, though, cuz I measured and calculated it all out. I just gotta make sure the wiring is clean and organized (unlike what it is right now!).
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Old 05-10-2011, 04:40 PM   #27
pola0502ds
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good luck with that, seriously. Your heat sinks are going to cause problems unless you mount it on the outside which i recommend.

 
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:06 PM   #28
CidahMastah
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Haha - very cool build

I would recc installing the heat sinks on the outside or venting your box and putting in a fan or two to keep the SSRs cool. One guy on here had a seal box with sinks inside, and his SSR was toasted, he thought from overheating. I ended up installing a fan on my box to blow across the sink and vent out the back.
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:52 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pola0502ds View Post
good luck with that, seriously.
Luck is one of my skills.

I will definitely be mounting the heatsinks on the outside (on the top).

BTW, my enclosure size is 14"x12"x6".
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:32 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pola0502ds View Post
good luck with that, seriously. Your heat sinks are going to cause problems unless you mount it on the outside which i recommend.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CidahMastah View Post
One guy on here had a seal box with sinks inside, and his SSR was toasted, he thought from overheating.
I believe you are talking about me here, Cidah.

This is how I fixed it; one blows in, one blows out:



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