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Old 04-28-2011, 10:20 PM   #21
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All the elements I've bought at Home Depot were plated copper, eventually the plating came off and now they just look copper.

Has anybody really had a rusting issue with these?


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Old 04-28-2011, 11:29 PM   #22
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The base of the element is where they rust.


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Old 04-30-2011, 03:22 PM   #23
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3 phase has 3 hot legs that are 120 degrees out of phase. Which means you get 208v between the hots rather than 240v as in single phase power. Each leg is still 120v from neutral just like residential single phase.

My apartment is powered from 2 legs of 3phase power. Everything is exactly the same as normal home wiring except that the range plug(the only two pole plug) only outputs 208v. That means I loose about 25% of the rated power of my 240v 4700watt element and only get 3606 watts out of it.

True 3phase elements use all three hots in a Delta configuration. The advantage is that the load is spread evenly across the phases. This is important to the power company with large loads as they would have to waste power to balance things out if you didn't and would charge accordingly.

3phase is mostly useful for running big industrial motors. The 3 overlapping legs help maintain continuous torque and are generally more efficient than single phase motors. Also 3phase motors are easy to reverse by swapping two of the legs.
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Old 05-18-2011, 10:57 AM   #24
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Anyone find a way to prevent the base from rusting or find a element that won't rust? I am now having the same problem
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Old 05-18-2011, 11:20 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pola0502ds View Post
Anyone find a way to prevent the base from rusting or find a element that won't rust? I am now having the same problem
Use an aluminum pot or install a magnesium sacrificial anode.
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Old 05-18-2011, 11:51 AM   #26
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The anode solution seems to be the most solid fix for the element rusting issues for a couple people, including me. I installed a Camco magnesium RV anode into my HLT and so far I've had zero rust issues.

Obviously that's the way it should be since that setup is exactly what they do in actual water heaters to prevent rust issues with the elements. If you are interested check out my build thread.

Other solutions I've heard work include painting the element base with POR15 or applying food grade silicone to the base of the element.

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Old 05-18-2011, 04:49 PM   #27
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My problem is that I am having this problem with my element in a RIMS tube, I have no where to mount a Anode.

I've hear of the POR15 but all the threads I have read said it didn't work. If you of it actually working I would like to hear about that.
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Old 05-18-2011, 06:22 PM   #28
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Well that there is a whole different animal. I have heard people talk about, but never actually confirm that an aluminum lock nut (instead of a stainless steel one) also works. Aluminum isn't as reactive a metal as magnesium, but it is used for water heater anodes as well.

Having never built a RIMS tube before I don't even know if you attach the element on the inside with a locknut or whether you thread it right into the pipe so my second suggestion could also be worthless to you!

Food grade silicon could be something you could try in your situation. I've heard mixed reviews on it. Some people say it works great, but others have complained it doesn't stay on very well on the base of the element.
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:52 AM   #29
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natty,

On my RIMS tube and I would imagine on most, the element is threaded onto a fixture that is already threaded. It's not like you insert the element through a hole and then apply a lock nut. There has to be a solution for this as people have been using elements for RIMS tubes for some time now.


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