Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > General Techniques > No Chill vs Chill in the Fermenter
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Old 04-20-2011, 06:54 PM   #21
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I have not experienced increased haze. The same proteins fall out, it just happens slower and they are in smaller pieces than when rapid cooling I think. Not that I have really seen anyone make a claim to the contrary, but, the brewery I intern at whirlpools then goes through a heat exchanger into the fermentor. That does essentially the very same thing we're doing by no chilling into the fermentor. All the proteins that would otherwise fall out of solution end up in their 100bbl conical just like it does in our no chill 5-10g batches.


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Old 04-20-2011, 08:59 PM   #22
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I no chill all the time.. I also can't do full boils so I mix up my runnings and split it into 2 3gal boils splitting all my additions.. From the boil straight to the bucket.. I also parti-gyle wich makes for a long day.. My flame out additions I add when the wort gets to 180.. What ever you do don't tell the guys at the LHBS because they will try to talk you out of it because of what could happen and push there stuff onto you.. It's fun when you let a 30yr brewmaster try your brew and he says it's one of the best in the group.. I walk away with a smile... I don't get chill haze and it is very clear with regular finning additions for my lighter styles.. Did I mention I just dump everything into my pale, hops, break and at boiling temps... I let them cool over night and aerate and pitch the next day...


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Old 04-20-2011, 09:44 PM   #23
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Anyone ever have any problem with Dimethyl Sulfide with chilling in the fermenter, or with no-chill in general? I've seen folks claim that chilling wort slowly can produce extra DMS.
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Old 04-20-2011, 09:45 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edmanster View Post
I no chill all the time.. I also can't do full boils so I mix up my runnings and split it into 2 3gal boils splitting all my additions.. From the boil straight to the bucket.. I also parti-gyle wich makes for a long day.. My flame out additions I add when the wort gets to 180.. What ever you do don't tell the guys at the LHBS because they will try to talk you out of it because of what could happen and push there stuff onto you.. It's fun when you let a 30yr brewmaster try your brew and he says it's one of the best in the group.. I walk away with a smile... I don't get chill haze and it is very clear with regular finning additions for my lighter styles.. Did I mention I just dump everything into my pale, hops, break and at boiling temps... I let them cool over night and aerate and pitch the next day...
Wow, that's pretty cool, especially the part about dumping everything in there! Do you cold crash your fermenter before bottling or kegging?
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Old 04-20-2011, 09:54 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dantheman13

Wow, that's pretty cool, especially the part about dumping everything in there! Do you cold crash your fermenter before bottling or kegging?
Only the really light beers that I feed my BMC friends trying to convert them.. I only keg now too cause the bottles I fill off the kegs are sediment free.. Mostly I use a paint strainer on my siphon but for the most part the yeast cake is like cement and nothing gets moved around only the day before I keg when I move the primary to the kitchen table. They come out really clear..
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:00 PM   #26
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Oh and I do always plan for blow off because the yeast really stir things up and it sticks to the krausen and it just keeps rising...lol
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:53 PM   #27
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Thanks for the responses.
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:59 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dantheman13 View Post
Anyone ever have any problem with Dimethyl Sulfide with chilling in the fermenter, or with no-chill in general? I've seen folks claim that chilling wort slowly can produce extra DMS.
Do a 90 minute boil and you will never have an DMS issue with no chill.
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:00 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edmanster View Post
I no chill all the time.. I also can't do full boils so I mix up my runnings and split it into 2 3gal boils splitting all my additions.. From the boil straight to the bucket.. I also parti-gyle wich makes for a long day.. My flame out additions I add when the wort gets to 180.. What ever you do don't tell the guys at the LHBS because they will try to talk you out of it because of what could happen and push there stuff onto you.. It's fun when you let a 30yr brewmaster try your brew and he says it's one of the best in the group.. I walk away with a smile... I don't get chill haze and it is very clear with regular finning additions for my lighter styles.. Did I mention I just dump everything into my pale, hops, break and at boiling temps... I let them cool over night and aerate and pitch the next day...
That is pretty awesome. I dont have the balls to do a full on no chill dump yet. I still filter out everything going into the bucket.
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:21 PM   #30
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I mostly do a full on chill dump. With the exception of what hops remain in the hop bag all the hop dust that escapes the bag goes into my fermentor. Brewing this "lazy" way makes brewing so much more fun.


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