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Old 04-18-2011, 02:10 PM   #1
Orange606
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Default RIMS Element Selection

I tried a search within HomeBrew Talk and Google, but I could not find a good guide on how to select a RIMS Tube heating element. Let me know if you have a good link. Otherwise, my two major concerns are scorching or other flavor impacting issues, and the element touching the side of the RIMS tube.

I am using the Brewers Hardware tri-clamp RIMS Tube, which is a great design. However the tube is narrow such that the fold over element I tried touches the sides. I am not confident that any amount of bending the element would prevent it from going back to its original position.

Generally i would try to use the lowest watt density, but i am now avoiding the fold over elements.I ended up with a 13" element rated at 4500 watts 240V, running at 110-120V.

Has anyone tried different elements and watt densities in the same configuration to determine at what point the watt density causes problems. The information I have found is anecdotal at best.


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Old 04-18-2011, 07:04 PM   #2
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That is the exact element I use (bought from Lowes for under $20). works great.


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Old 04-18-2011, 07:33 PM   #3
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Is 1125 watts enough "umph" for RIMS?
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:17 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkarp
Is 1125 watts enough "umph" for RIMS?
Well, why wouldn't it be? You're just maintaining temps with the tube. Granted, stepping would be an issue. But besides that, it should work fine.
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Old 04-19-2011, 11:19 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ikonis View Post
Well, why wouldn't it be? You're just maintaining temps with the tube. Granted, stepping would be an issue. But besides that, it should work fine.
I've never worked with RIMS nor seen a characterization of the heat loss in non-cooler based MLTs, hence my question. Assuming system heat loss is less than 1125W of course you're right.
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkarp View Post
Is 1125 watts enough "umph" for RIMS?
It depends on the heat loss of the Mash Tun and the flow rate through the RIMS tube. I am successful with 1500 watts.
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Old 04-20-2011, 05:43 AM   #7
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Yeah, why did you go with the 240 element run on 120 rather than just using a 120v element rated for 1500?
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Old 04-20-2011, 03:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thelorax121 View Post
Yeah, why did you go with the 240 element run on 120 rather than just using a 120v element rated for 1500?
I went with that to achieve ULWD in a form factor that works for my application with an inexpensive part that can be easily found.

there is no difference between a 220V 4000W element run at 110V than a 110V 2000W element run at 110V (unless my math is wrong... is it 1000W? I forget.).

There IS a difference between running any given 220V element at either 110 or 220. that difference is the overall Wattage output. Therefore, you achieve lower watt density, which is desirable.
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Old 04-20-2011, 03:44 PM   #9
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The 220/240 elements tend to be longer (lower watt density) than the 120 elements at the same wattage at 120v
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Old 05-13-2011, 05:03 PM   #10
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So I am going to pick up my RIMS element from one of the big box stores and I have a questions about a 240V element run at 110V.

Does this mean I can get any element, wire it to the extension cord and run it through my control panel to my normal 120V outlet? Is this safe? Sorry if this is a dumb question I just have no experience with hot water heating elements.

And can you recommend one from a place like Homedepot/Lowes?

Thanks
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