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04-11-2011, 02:01 PM   #1
anycrew
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Jan 2011
S.FL, Florida
Posts: 24

I'm looking into building a fermentation closet within my garage and am looking for some pointers.
I have a stand alone garage that gets very hot and humid in the summer (100 degrees). My idea is to make an insulated room ( say 4'x 6') within the garage that is cooled by a window a/c unit.
I was thinking just framing out the room and lining it with rigid foam panel insulation. I'm a construction novice and don't want moisture problems.
How would Holmes on Holmes make it?

04-11-2011, 03:57 PM   #2
kpr121

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Jul 2009
Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 3,151
Liked 127 Times on 111 Posts

Vapor Barrier on the warm side (outside of chamber insulation). Make sure you calculate your R-values/Cooling capacity, especially if you are getting up to 100 deg ambient

For example, assuming a 8 ft high ceiling the required BTU's per hour to stay at 60 degrees (for cleaner ales) given a overall R-Value of 13.5 is:

BTU/hr
= (SURFACE AREA (SF) x delta T) / ( R VALUE )
= 208 SF * (100-60) / (13.5 ) = 616 BTU/hr

Double the R-value by increasing insulation and you can cut that number in half. If you are looking at getting down to lager temps that number will go up.

04-11-2011, 04:10 PM   #3
gswartley

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Oct 2010
Bowmansville, PA
Posts: 103
Liked 4 Times on 4 Posts

Don't forget to insulate the floor. I'm sure the slab is getting quite hot and you will want to insulate against it.

04-11-2011, 04:54 PM   #4
Jota21

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Dec 2010
Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 317
Liked 15 Times on 11 Posts

HOH claims that you dont need a vapor barrier with rigid foam... just tape the seams, but you might get a better R-value if you go with vapor barrier and regular fiberglass insulation.

Insulating the slab is a good idea too

04-11-2011, 07:35 PM   #5
Salmonhouse
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Mar 2011
Seattle, WA
Posts: 135
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

I have 3 mil plastic sheeting taped together covering everything, followed by fiberglass insulation and topped off with sheets of foam insulation. I figured overkill couldn't hurt. Make sure you use foil tape, duct tape is porous.
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04-13-2011, 01:33 PM   #6
anycrew
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Jan 2011
S.FL, Florida
Posts: 24

Thanks for the tips. Any ideas on constructing a door?

04-13-2011, 02:01 PM   #7
Shaggyt
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Sep 2009
Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 156
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Quote:
 Originally Posted by anycrew Thanks for the tips. Any ideas on constructing a door?
This was the most challenging part of my build. I used rigid foam on the door as well, and lots of weather stripping, several different types too. I then needed several slide bolts to keep door tight to the weather stripping.

04-13-2011, 02:24 PM   #8
Cpt_Kirks

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Sep 2008
Lakeland TN
Posts: 3,723
Liked 47 Times on 41 Posts

Quote:
 Originally Posted by Shaggyt This was the most challenging part of my build. I used rigid foam on the door as well, and lots of weather stripping, several different types too. I then needed several slide bolts to keep door tight to the weather stripping.
Does the "door" really need to be a conventional door? How about a "hatch", with plywood front and back, plus a 2" foam board core? Thick foam rubber weatherstripping on the hatch and the hole it goes into.

The hatch will not be used like a door. It will only be opened at most once a day or so. Should be able to seal it better than a regular door.

04-13-2011, 05:32 PM   #9
Jota21

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Dec 2010
Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 317
Liked 15 Times on 11 Posts

exterior steel door: \$150 at a big box store, and super easy to install...

04-13-2011, 05:47 PM   #10
JohnTheBrewist

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Nov 2010
SoCal
Posts: 617
Liked 9 Times on 8 Posts

I'm also doing this in my brewshed. Even though I'll have some heatloss, I'm planning to use a mostly glass door from HD so I can show off my conical inside. The whole shed is well insulated, so I think I'll be OK. But I'm a little worried about too much condensation on the glass.
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