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Old 04-09-2011, 05:11 PM   #1
TravelingBrewer22
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Aug 2008
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So I've begun to move to keggle brewing. Finished cutting and sanding the tops off of three kegs and moving on to installing valves, thermometers, and all that good stuff. Before I do, however, I've decided to tackle a sanke fermenter. I'm tired of glass carboy and like the idea of having a larger fermenter that is ss. Anyways, I had this idea last night convert a rubber insulated keg into a fermenter. I can't weld or anything so I thought this might work instead:

15.5 gallon keg.
2 old corny lids
ss couplings and valves
airlock w/ stopper.

My idea is to cut a hole in the top of the keg (same size and shape as the one in a 5gal corny). Remove the stem and everything and insert eh old corny lid. I figured that if those lids can handle CO2 pressure and sanitizing then it should be good enough for fermentation as well. Drill a hold for stopper and airlock in the corny lid. Top Done!

For the bottom I would do the exact same thing (Once again thinking that those lids can provide a good seal and will be easy to remove for cleaning). This time instead of installing an airlock and stopper I would install a ball valve to the lid for yeast removal and beer transfer into my actual corny keg for distribution.

Waste of time?



 
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Old 04-09-2011, 06:02 PM   #2
JuanMoore
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Oct 2009
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Or you could just remove the spear and put a drilled stopper in the hole. From what I understand, the orange carboy caps also fit snugly around the neck. That way the keg is undamaged, you can do counter pressure tranfers, use it to serve from, or even add a spunding valve to do pressurized fermentations. Either way, sankeys make great fermenters.



 
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Old 04-09-2011, 06:09 PM   #3
WortMonger
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Yep, Sankes make perfect fermentors. Check out the link in my signature or do a search for Sanke fermentors and see how everyone else is using them before you do anything to that keg. You might just find it is perfect as-is.
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Old 04-09-2011, 08:46 PM   #4
52pickup
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I have been taking a sanke, flipping it upside down so the stock port is down, then installing a corny top on what was the bottom. On the factory sanke port, which is now at the bottom of the fermentor, I'd use a tri-clover (I don't remember what size it is that matches up to the sanke port) to a 3 piece valve. Possibly add a racking port on the side, and call it a fermentor.
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Old 04-10-2011, 02:15 AM   #5
RiverCityBrewer
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Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 52pickup View Post
I have been taking a sanke, flipping it upside down so the stock port is down, then installing a corny top on what was the bottom. On the factory sanke port, which is now at the bottom of the fermentor, I'd use a tri-clover (I don't remember what size it is that matches up to the sanke port) to a 3 piece valve. Possibly add a racking port on the side, and call it a fermentor.
2" Tri-Clamp fittings are what you want to mate up with the sanke.

 
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Old 04-10-2011, 06:28 PM   #6
TravelingBrewer22
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Aug 2008
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What size ball valve should I mate up with the 2" tri-clamp fitting? I'm not super familiar with tri-clamp fittings. Do I need a reducer so that a 1/2" or 3/4" ball valve will work? Thanks for the input

 
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:13 PM   #7
52pickup
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Brewers Hardware carries the 2" Tri-clover to 1/2", 3/4", and 1" adapters.


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