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Old 04-07-2011, 02:24 PM   #11
nyer
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Dec 2007
Merritt Island, Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BendBrewer View Post
I have a single tier and one pump. It forces me to batch sparge but so what?

I did build the stand with the idea of adding a second pump but my system works fine for now and I'm content at the moment. I can spend more money later if I want.

Do you have any issues with the plastic cooler getting too hot from the burners next to it? I have been trying to figure out how much distance I need between each pot. I was planning on making the total length of the stand 60 inches. Is that enough length?

For some reason I really wanted to try fly sparging. I currently batch sparge and really don't need to change, I wanted to have the ability to do both though. I could always add a second pump later. I also wanted room under the stand to store a shopvac and generator. I have too much crap in my garage and can't afford to lose the floor space so I need to have storage under the stand.

 
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Old 04-07-2011, 02:27 PM   #12
nyer
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Dec 2007
Merritt Island, Florida
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Originally Posted by FishFace View Post
I started with single level and one pump, Added 2nd pump later.

Tips I learned:

Make so everything can be stripped, upgrades are easier.

I would add leveling legs, to mine.

Pumps go as low as possible. And add cover. Simple bent acrylic works great.

I used CAD to design mine. Allowed me to cut all pieces, prep, then do fab work. Saved tons of that wasted "thinking" time while in shop.

I used cheap BBQ paint. And still like it. I can touch up as needed.

I did not angle cut corners, I used plastic plugs, but They are far enough away that they don't melt.

Integrate hose storage if you use silicone tubing.

KISS
Do you have any problems pumping your mash into your boil kettle? I thought I read somewhere that it was difficult to do becuase the pump runs dry and then you have to worry about priming again.

 
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Old 04-07-2011, 03:31 PM   #13
BendBrewer
 
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Jan 2010
Bend, Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nyer View Post
Do you have any issues with the plastic cooler getting too hot from the burners next to it? I have been trying to figure out how much distance I need between each pot. I was planning on making the total length of the stand 60 inches. Is that enough length?
If I turn the heat up to much yeah it got hot once. Keep the flames under the HLT and no problem. I do use that board under the cooler as the frame does get hot.

I followed these plans so I guess mine is 62 inches long. Yeah, that's what I said.

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Old 04-07-2011, 04:45 PM   #14
nyer
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Dec 2007
Merritt Island, Florida
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I just measured and can go up to 68 inches wide. maybe I'll plan to do that so I can keep some distance between the cooler and the burners.

 
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Old 04-07-2011, 05:30 PM   #15
November
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Southern AZ
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I built mine as a single with one pump. For now, I just batch sparge, but it would be very easy to add a second. Same idea with my hlt and mlt. At present, they are both unheated igloos but I could convert to additional burners or electric with easy mods to the stand. That was why I used angle over tube because it woul make additions and changes easier. Overall, I guess that my advice would be to either go big and build your dream system from the ground up, or build a less specific more modular stand with expansion in mind. I built my rig with everything except the MLT (I carried that over from my old setup) for almost exactly $500.

 
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:23 PM   #16
nyer
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Dec 2007
Merritt Island, Florida
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I'm definately doing a single tier and I'm just about ready to start buying material. I thought of one more question, what width are you guys using for the top of the stand? I see bendbrewer went with 16 1/2 to the outside. Is that enough for a 16" wide keg? Is there any reason to make it wider?

 
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Old 04-08-2011, 05:37 PM   #17
nyer
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Dec 2007
Merritt Island, Florida
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Wow the steel is cheaper than I thought, I stopped at a fabrication/steel shop a few miles from my house and the 1 1/2" 14 gauge is only $1.09 a foot and the 2" is only
$1.60. They will make all of the cuts for me too. It's only between $40-$60 for all the steel depending on what size I get.

 
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Old 04-08-2011, 07:32 PM   #18
slakwhere
 
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Dec 2009
Salt Lake City, Utah
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will they charge you for the cuts? cut costs add up (but they will prolly make some super purdy square and 45 degree cuts).

if they won't charge you to cut... go for it!!

 
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Old 04-08-2011, 08:27 PM   #19
mmurray
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Nov 2009
Internet
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I know my supplier charges $1 per cut... According to Lonnie Mac's cut sheet that'll be 18 cuts. So to only add $18 is worth it for nice square cuts!
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:13 PM   #20
slakwhere
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmurray View Post
I know my supplier charges $1 per cut... According to Lonnie Mac's cut sheet that'll be 18 cuts. So to only add $18 is worth it for nice square cuts!
mine wanted like $3/cut so i put a cutting disc on my miter saw and went for it. they came out pretty good, but for $1/cut they would have done it for sure.

 
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