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Old 06-12-2011, 12:51 AM   #21
missing link
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I run PBW through mine for almost an hour just to get the PBW up to 170 which they say is the ideal cleaning temperature for that product.

Linc
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Old 06-12-2011, 06:16 PM   #22
pola0502ds
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Quote:
Originally Posted by missing link View Post
I run PBW through mine for almost an hour just to get the PBW up to 170 which they say is the ideal cleaning temperature for that product.

Linc
Did not know that, thanks.

 
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Old 06-13-2011, 06:45 PM   #23
Quaffer
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Originally Posted by ikonis View Post
I pulled it out today after I don't know how many batches. Surprisingly, it was still working!

What's weird is I always run pbw and saniclean through it for about an hour after each brew.

It looks to be rectorseal and caramelized sugars all over the element.
I have been following Trigger's thread about gunk on the element, so I remove it after each brew. My tube is made from 1.5" ss fittings (like yours I believe), and it is easy to take apart. The trick is to make the tube easy to remove from the structure.

So far my RIMS heater has had what looks like sloppy oat meal on it after circulating OxiClean and heating for 30 minutes. The gunk has come off easily with a dish brush and nothing seems to have stuck to the element though.
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Old 06-13-2011, 07:51 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quaffer View Post
I have been following Trigger's thread about gunk on the element, so I remove it after each brew. My tube is made from 1.5" ss fittings (like yours I believe), and it is easy to take apart. The trick is to make the tube easy to remove from the structure.

So far my RIMS heater has had what looks like sloppy oat meal on it after circulating OxiClean and heating for 30 minutes. The gunk has come off easily with a dish brush and nothing seems to have stuck to the element though.
I've since added some triclamp fittings for easy removal
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Old 06-13-2011, 09:37 PM   #25
Coldies
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Originally Posted by ikonis View Post
I've since added some triclamp fittings for easy removal
Did you add the triclamp fittings to your 1 1/2" pipe? I was thinking about doing this as well. Just where the element screws into the "T" fitting.

 
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Old 06-13-2011, 09:47 PM   #26
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Did you add the triclamp fittings to your 1 1/2" pipe? I was thinking about doing this as well. Just where the element screws into the "T" fitting.
Yup. Added a 1.5" mnpt to 1.5" tc fitting on the tube. And a 1" fnpt to 1.5" tc on the element. Then attached the element like kal with a single gang electrical box
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Old 06-13-2011, 10:49 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by ikonis View Post
Yup. Added a 1.5" mnpt to 1.5" tc fitting on the tube. And a 1" fnpt to 1.5" tc on the element. Then attached the element like kal with a single gang electrical box
Would you mind throwing up a picture when you get a chance. Thanks man. I was looking at the triclamp fitting for elements from brewers hardware and that thing looks slick. But with the 1.5" mnpt to 1.5" triclamp plus this I would be out another $100.00

 
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Old 06-27-2011, 12:03 PM   #28
pola0502ds
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I am having a little rust form on the base of my element. None what-so-ever on the element prongs. Can I leave this little bit of rust on the base of the element and not have any problems or should I find a way to remove it. That brings up my next question, how do you remove the rust?

 
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Old 06-28-2011, 02:41 PM   #29
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how do you remove the rust?
Elbow grease. Or throw a small layer of food grade silicone on the base to seal it up.

 
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Old 06-28-2011, 04:50 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by kshuler View Post
Also, what about using caustic on the elements- I have a pound of pure sodium hydroxide that I have been considering running through the system.
FWIW, I have a couple of heated caustic tanks at work and we use the Incoloy elements in them. They last for many years as long as you don't let the salts build-up too much and cover them up (don't ask how I know this), but for you this shouldn't be a problem (the salts build-up from frequent cooling/heating over the course of many months).
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