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Old 04-11-2011, 11:47 PM   #51
kyle6286
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Dec 2009
North Providence, Rhode Island (unfortunately)
Posts: 343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barrooze View Post
The Safale US-05 can contribute fruity, peachy esters if fermented at warmer temps. Nottingham may be a better choice for the Autumn Amber. Either way, I think that Munton's is the cheapest yeast out there and you could benefit from a "premium" dry yeast. Just my opinion.
Great, not sure if I will brew Autumn Amber right away because I most likely want to experiment with other types, but if I do go back to Autumn Amber I will try Nottingham. Thanks for the advice!

 
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Old 04-12-2011, 12:41 AM   #52
UserBanned
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Mar 2011
Schwenksville, PA
Posts: 8

I'm having a similar situation. I re-pitched some yeast on Sunday, so I'll take a reading in a day or so once activity starts up again. This whole stalled fermentation thing sucks! LOL.

 
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Old 04-12-2011, 03:46 AM   #53
boyleia1
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Jan 2010
Brighton, Michigan
Posts: 17

Quote:
Originally Posted by barrooze View Post
I meant to reply earlier but life got in the way. If you don't need the fermenter and don't mind throwing some more money at this one, get some Brett, pedio, lambicus vials/packs and throw them in. Wait several months and you'll have a real interesting sour on your hands. The wild yeasts should eat up some of those unfermentables you have in there and thin out the beer a bit. It'd be an interesting experiment if you have the time and money. If you don't, toss it and start over.

What do you mean by "dont need the fermenter"? I have glass carboy's. it should be possible to clean it out right? If i can clean it up i might try this but if not i am starting over.. I know wild yeast will contaminate a brewery but will it ruin a carboy?

 
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Old 04-12-2011, 03:50 AM   #54
barrooze
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Jan 2009
Pearland, TX
Posts: 2,438
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I meant that if you don't need it to ferment another beer in it in the meantime. If you can let that one just sit in a spot in your home that won't get too hot (stay steady in the high 60s to low 70s), you could have a very interesting sour brew on your hands.

Glass carboy will be just fine if you do sours in it. And wild yeast don't really contaminate if you're sanitary with your cleaning and sanitizing. You'll be fine.
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Old 06-06-2011, 02:37 PM   #55
boyleia1
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Jan 2010
Brighton, Michigan
Posts: 17

Update: on 4/7/11 i transferred to secondary with a gravity of 1.040. I intended to let it sit of 3-4 weeks but honestly forgot about it till today. I checked my gravity and i am at 1.010. I guess it just needed a really really long time to work through all the sugar.

 
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:48 PM   #56
junior
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May 2011
Clifton, NJ
Posts: 238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfowler1 View Post
boyleia1,

Thanks for posting that. It is a huge help.

I think that in almost all cases of poor fermentability, you have three culprits.
1. Recipe
2. Mash Temp
3. Yeast Health

1. Recipe
Honestly, it looks good. 2 row, biscuit, and smoked malt are all fermentable. As another poster noted, you efficiency could improve, but that does not seem to be the root problem here (but certainly something to work on). 2 pounds of crystal is a lot, but it would not be enough to get stuck above 1.040. The Brown Shugga clone is just shy of 2 lbs of crystal, and finishes around 1.022.

2. Mash temp
You said something that concerned me. "Boil, add grain". If you boiled, in the above 212 degree sense of the word, you mashed way too hot. I know you mentioned mash at 158 for 110 minutes (which is about 50-60 minutes more than you need at such a high temp - 90 minutes is a good idea with a low mash ~148) but there is no way that boiling water + grain = 158. It is usually more like 175 water + grain = 158. So maybe there is a thermometer problem, or a poorly stirred mash...something to work on next time. Would you perhaps be mashing on a stovetop or right on a burner, with the heat source still on?

3. Yeast health. You probably have been made aware that a starter needs to be 1.040. Use metric and weight (not volume measurements) to figure this out next time. For every 10 ml of water, add 1 gram of light DME. So, 1000 ml (1 Liter) starter gets 100 grams of light DME. Your 1.100 Barleywine starter may have doomed the yeast, or at least, didn't do anything to help them. Oxygen and aeration are insanely important to a good fermentation, but I think you have a couple other hurdles to work out before getting wrapped up in aeration. Baby Steps.

So, keep the same grain bill, and next time work on hitting your mash number. There are free calculators or purchasable software to help you with that calculation. Also, take another try at a starter, 10:1 (water to DME). If liquid yeast and starters seem like too much to deal with, you might have great success rehydrating a pack of dry yeast in 100F pre-boiled water and pitching that.

Hope you have better luck on the next batch, and feel free to ask any follow up questions.

Joe
Joe, I have brewed one batch and had a FG that was on the High side so I figured that I should do some research on this site and stumbled onto this thread. I am using dry yeast for now and would like your opinion, I read something on the web that suggested that one should rehydrate dry yeast and also add some sugars to make sure the yeast are viable. I posted a tread on my problem with a high FG and one member said that adding sugar was a no no, I wrote back for an explanation but never got one, why would putting sugar into the rehydrated yeast compromise the yeast? Regard's

 
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