Coopers Brew Kits...

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jmcdaniel0

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SO I bought the coopers starter kit, made the lager that was included, and as I expected, it was good, but not really good. Not even close to great.

So my question is this:

Are the other Coopers Kits any better. I like all types of Beer. So any suggestions on their kits would be great.

I am considering the English Bitter, the Irish Stout, and the Real Ale packages. Has anyone used these straight out of the *box*? and How good are they?

Also, Are there better kits out there? I am just getting started into home brewing, and I want to Keep it Simple for now, so I am sticking to the ready to go kits.

I will say however, I started with a Mr. Beer, that was gave to me used by my friend from college, and I wasnt to impressed. I got the Coopers Home Brew Kit as an upgrade, and I gotta say, everything looks well made, and has the feel of quality to it. I havent used it but once, so, I could be wrong... Any Coopers users out there care to comment on that?
 
I am not familiar with the coopers kits, but their ingredient kits are generally no boil, pre-hopped "kit and a kilo"-type kits which can make decent beer, but are the lowest tier in terms of flexibility and quality in terms of the taste of the final product - comparable to the Mr. Beer stuff that I myself got started with.

I would go ahead and switch to extract with steeping grains and "real" hop additions, purchased from a local homebrew store or one of the many reputable online dealers like Northern Brewer. Those give you many more options and usually produce better results as well.
 
I brewed a Cooper's Real Ale as per the instructions and it came out very tangy and cidery. After doing some research here and elsewhere online, I think it was because of the 4 cups of corn sugar called for during the boil, resulting in excessive levels of acetylaldehyde. It is barely drinkable now, so I am going to let it rest for 2-3 months and try it again. I just got done brewing an NB American Wheat, which had all liquid malt extract (LME) with no corn sugar, and go figure there is absolutely no tangy flavor or aroma.

If you are going to go with Cooper's, I would strongly encourage you to use dried malt extract (DME) instead of corn sugar.
 
W/a friend we've brewed about 4 batches of Cooper's. I'd say that they were really good. Not sure what great is.

Did you follow the instructions? Usually it calls for only a week in the primary, I've been going about 2.5 weeks.

Of course here in the islands of paradise w/o refrideration we can only do top fermenting brews.
 
I am not familiar with the coopers kits, but their ingredient kits are generally no boil, pre-hopped "kit and a kilo"-type kits which can make decent beer, but are the lowest tier in terms of flexibility and quality in terms of the taste of the final product - comparable to the Mr. Beer stuff that I myself got started with.

I would go ahead and switch to extract with steeping grains and "real" hop additions, purchased from a local homebrew store or one of the many reputable online dealers like Northern Brewer. Those give you many more options and usually produce better results as well.

I do not know of any Home Brew stores near me, but I would love any links to good online dealers.

Also, I do plan on eventually moving into extracts. I just havent got there yet.
 
I brewed the lager kit for my first beer as well. The brewing sugar has to much dextrose in it and almost makes the beer taste like a natural ice clone. My second brew i also did the coopers no boil IPA kit but i used all DME and dry hopped. Came out 100 times better. But i do not recomend these kits you don't get a really great tasting brew. The kit it self is good for the price the fermenter is great. Once you have that you don't have to stick to cooper no boil kits. I'm a new brewer also and was also nervous to move on from the no boil kits. But i just got done brewing up a norther brewer oatmeal stout kit. And the taste is so different then the cooper kits i brewed prevously. Norther brewer also has just easy extract kits that don't take alot of skill. And there great plus you can ferment them in your cooper fermenter no problem. And the difference is like dirt to honey. But if your going to stick with the cooper no boil kits. I would cut out the dextrose (corn sugar) and use DME. Also the 6-7 days they say to leave in the primary in the coopers kits is bull. The beer comes out way to cloudy don't follow there instructions. My second no boil coopers i left in the fermenter for 19 days the beer was much better looking and tastiing. Good luck
cheers
 
I don't know about the kits you are talking about, but I do know about the cans of LME that I can buy here in Canada. I like those if I'm too busy to make my own beer, but still want something in the pipeline. As noted above, don't boil them, take at least twice as much time as the instructions say, and most of all... hop them if you like hops.

They're like a Duncan Hines cake mix... cheap, works in a birthday, but we all know we can do better when we have the whole afternoon to do it in.
 
Norther brewer also has just easy extract kits that don't take alot of skill. And there great plus you can ferment them in your cooper fermenter no problem.

^^ Listen to this advice. I have two Cooper's kits, because the fermenters are so awesome and likely buying a third soon, and their kits are nothing more than OK. NorthernBrewer is what you want to do (or any other good homebrew shops kits like already mentioned). I made a NorthernBrewer Amber Ale but lightened up and changed a little of the hops a bit and it came out amazing. The instructions are ridiculously easy to follow, just make sure you buy one of their extract kits since you are still doing extract - as am I.

I did the Cooper's Wheat as well but threw out their instructions and used 2lb's of wheat DME as well as their 500g of Light Dry Malt. I also ditched their yeast and used Wyeast 3068 liquid yeast and the beer was friggin awesome. So you can make their cans work, just ditch the sugar and use DME or LME instead and use a better yeast. But why not just skip it and go with some good Northern kits? They're quite inexpensive too.


Rev.
 
I also did a Coopers Lager kit as my first brew. It was ok but I got impatient and did not let it age. Also, I fermented at 70+ degrees. I switched to Austin Home Brew Supplies and have done several of their kits. They all have turned out awsome. I now ferment at about 62 degrees and let it sit in the primary for 3-4 weeks then keg w/ force carb. But recently I decided to do a Coppers English Bitter. I bought it from Austin Home Brew and used their kit add pack. Let it sit for a month in primary, kegged, carbed, and it was gone in less then 3 weeks. It was the best beer I have made yet. Just my .02
 
Ok. So i went ahead, and check out the northern site, I like some of the stuff. I going to order the caribou slobber kit.


http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/caribou-slobber-extract-kit.html

I am going to choose the wyeast 1332 northwest ale yeast.

Now as to the carbonation... Will it taste as good if i just use the table sugar? I have enough Coopers Carb drops left. Will that taste just as good as the 5 0z packet of priming sugar they sell?

I guess my question is, "Will my carbonation method, greatly alter the taste of the beer?" And If so, "Which way produces the best results, relative to my new and low skill level?"
 
No use what u want just use a brew calc for differnet sugars for instance there is a differnce of amount to use with corn,sugarcane,maple,dme. check out tastybrew.com for a brew calc or other.With corn sugar use the oz per gallon for ales for browns if it requires less maybe use .8 oz per gal. Differen t styles require differnt amounts generally less the darker but not really true with a dunkleweizen i guess/on
dont worry about taste too much with priming sugar worry about time, dont be disapointed .If you dont like them yet let them sit longer.Before chilling.
 
If you have those cooper carb drops the'll be fine for any brew. Northern brewer actually give you the option to buy those carb drops with there kits i think. I was using those also still have enough left for another batch. So i'll use them up and then i'm going to switch 2 corn sugar with a bottling bucket. I don't know about table sugar never used it. Every one here usually says use dextrose (corn sugar) for bottle carbanation. So you would have to ask some one else about table sugar but dextrose is very cheap and you can get it from northern brewer also. I know with the cooper kits u don't have a bottling bucket but u can add a little dextrose to each bottle. How much i do not know never done it that way. But heard u can no problem if your carefull. I would ask someone the amount before doing this though. And also remember there will be different amounts you have to add to different size bottles. Good luck hope that helps
 
In my opinion, the Coopers Lager kit that is included with the Coopers brew setup is the worst of the bunch. Mine came out very cidery - not undrinkable, but not good either. I've also made the Real Ale, Draught, Cerveza (twice), Stout, Irish Stout, Canadian Blonde, Pilsner, European Lager, and the English Bitter. The English Bitter and Pilsner kits are outstanding, and the others are very good. The European Lager is still in its recommended 3 month aging period so I can't really comment on it. I've been buying from MonsterBrew or Austin Homebrew Supply and getting their add pack for most of these. I've mostly been brewing them at cooler temps than recommended in the instructions.

I've also brewed a number of the same styles of beer from the Muntons kits in order to do a direct comparison and I find them -- less good. They are certainly drinkable, but when I want to make a batch in a hurry, the Coopers will be my go-to from now on.

To second what others have posted, when you have the time to spend more than an hour making a batch, the extract kits from Northern Brewer and Austin Homebrew can make some outstanding beer.
 
The Coopers Stout kits aren't bad, especially if you use malt extract instead of corn sugar, that's how I began homebrewing before I had time/space/knowledge for AG.
I discovered that mixing the Coopers stout kit with the Munton's stout kit and a pound or two of honey made for a :rockin: Imperial Stout.
 
You guys is crazzy. I like drinking more beer to get a buzz , i dont understand the hype of 10 % alchohol. Guess if i was still in my 20's wouldnt give a **** either.even then i was drinking miller lites.
 
You guys is crazzy. I like drinking more beer to get a buzz , i dont understand the hype of 10 % alchohol. Guess if i was still in my 20's wouldnt give a **** either.even then i was drinking miller lites.

Um, grammar much? :drunk:

I might have missed it but I don't recall seeing anyone mention 10% ABV beer in this thread. But in retrospect to your post I also don't drink 10% ABV to get drunk but if you're arguing with Miller lights I'll say at least you won't have to go to the bathroom 3x more often with a 10% ABV beer :D


Rev.
 
Um, grammar much? :drunk:

I might have missed it but I don't recall seeing anyone mention 10% ABV beer in this thread. But in retrospect to your post I also don't drink 10% ABV to get drunk but if you're arguing with Miller lights I'll say at least you won't have to go to the bathroom 3x more often with a 10% ABV beer :D


Rev.

I was coming from a pure taste view point, not an alcohol content. I dont really drink to get drunk. I like to drink beer, because I generally like beer.

I think I am going to keep using the coopers drops. They worked just fine the first time around and they were just fine.
 
I don't understand why the Cooper's OS lager kit gets bashed for "cidery off flavors with dex". That off flavor is mostly due to high pitch temp,not maintaining minimum ferment temp,& not letting it sit in primary long enough to clean up for that particular batch. Mine came out quite good,you can see it in my avatar. I did,however,get the Cooper's brewing sugar with mine. It's 80% dextrose,20% maltodextrine. It makes a difference. The color,as you can see,is a light gold with an amber blush. The flavor is more like a Malt-forward English ale.
I brewed it at 20C (69F),left it in primary for 12 days. I got an FG of 1.012 from an OG of 1.047. I must say,the change to brewing sugar made the difference. The problem I have is the "Pride of Ringwood" bittering hops used. They are rather neutral for my taste,maybe a tiny bit of fruity. Ale yeasts usually produce fruity esters anyway,however. I think some hops that add some floral,herby,earthy quality would make it better.
So,in conclusion,I'd have to say it's the brewer,not the brew. You can make good beer from cans,it's just a whole new paradigm to work to.
 
He seemed to miss the imperial part you mentioned a few threads above.I just like variety and having a few instead of already blurred and less thats all. I just used to drink yellow fizzy beer only to get drunk though. but was blind to what beer could really be, a long while ago.
 
Isn't it amazing how so many blame the brew instead of the brewer? Sounds like TSA on youtube that used to be on here. Another long thread where we all agreed on what I said above. The sooner they learn those basic facts,the sooner that (at the least) "quick brew session" will wind up worlds better. It sounds like many had that noob impatience thing pretty bad. Can kits are a very different kind of brewing where good brewing tactics & experience making the right changes are of the utmost importance.
But there are so many different LME's & DME's coming from different countries,with so many yeasts to play with,that a lot of different recipe styles can be had. It's a lot of fun,but care must be taken. And learn from experience about what to use,what not to use. What to do,what to avoid. If one can't make good,or at least,pleasant beer from can kits,I can't imagine what they'd do with AG,etc till they get it right.
Some all grainers do the occasional extract kit to keep the pipeline going. Do it right,& it comes out right.
 
I've had good results with the Brewer's Best (LD Carlson) extract kits. I found their instructions to be good. Also the kits from morebeer.com and northernbrewer.com are very good, fresh ingredients.
 
So Brewer's Best is made by LD Carlson? I buy their hop pellets. Very good packaging. But the BB kits they have at the LHBS are between something like $35-$55! I can put my own "kit" together for $25-$30. But I am interested in their maibock,& a couple others. The Maibock being some $52. A lower price would be nice. *PS Forgot I already saved the morebeer site. Gunna give'em a look-see.
 
I've said before that I think Cooper's kits are garbage, and I still think so. Canned LME that instructs you to add sugar to boost the fermentables and cheap yeast will NOT make good beer.
The good thing about those Cooper's kit (like Mr Beer) is that serious wanna-be brewers can say, "These suck" and move on to quality beer kits.

Good beer can be made from extract kits! And very good beer at that. I'd suggest getting rid of any canned LME (hopped or not, although the hopped is worse) and the cheap and yucky Munton's and Cooper's yeast.

Buying dry malt extract (DME), hops, and yeast (like S04 or S05) can make a wonderful beer. Canned LME is my least favorite beer ingredient.

I always liken beer making to spaghetti. If you buy a can of sauce, you can make spaghetti sauce. It's not very good, but some people don't hate it. (cooper's kits and John Bull kits)

If you buy a quality jar of spaghetti sauce (like Newman's Own), you can make an ok spaghetti. (Extract kits)

If you buy a can of tomatoes, a can of tomatoes, and some fresh spices, you can make a pretty good spaghetti sauce. (Extract kits with specialty grains).

If you buy a bushel of tomatoes, you can make a great spaghetti sauce IF you have the know-how (all grain brewing).

My point is that Cooper's only can make what they can make. They aren't very good, but they make a drinkable alcoholic beverage most of the time. Like making spaghettio's, some hate (like me), some think it's just fine.

But if you want to make a quality beer with quality ingredients, strike Cooper's off of your list. It may produce drinkable alcohol, but never a "good" beer.
 
I've had good results with the Brewer's Best (LD Carlson) extract kits. I found their instructions to be good. Also the kits from morebeer.com and northernbrewer.com are very good, fresh ingredients.

Brewer's Bests kits are surprisingly good! IF you get a relatively fresh one, that is. I've seen dust on some kits in some homebrew stores. If you can order/buy a fresh-ish one, you'll make good beer! Their instructions are very good as well.
 
Go back to post #21. I stand by what I say. Experience & experimentation go hand in hand. But,too,science without conscience is treason to science. IMO,what's missing from concentrating/drying is the chemical(s) in the fresh grains that give more of an AG kick to it. I'm sure that partial extract is indeed good. But it's expensive around here. And I'm talking $50-$55 expensive. Then shipping comes into play if I go on-line for it. I've made 2 good brews from Cooper's so far. The one in my avatar is more of a malt-forward English ale,the second more of a doppel bock. I may yet spring for a Brewer's Best kit to give it a try. Just to see what all the raving is about. Might even be fun.?...
 
Ive made my first few with some bags of mutons from my homebrew store and i know it was partialy me that made it not so good but i think it may have been on the shelf a while.Not to mention the vanilla beans i got from there after having a not vanilla suck taste from them i ended up pitching those beans and would rather use afresh one from a food co-op.Since then ive been mail ordering and really like Northern brewers stuff- i have tried a few others but am pretty happy how they turn out.
 
Go back to post #21. I stand by what I say. Experience & experimentation go hand in hand. But,too,science without conscience is treason to science. IMO,what's missing from concentrating/drying is the chemical(s) in the fresh grains that give more of an AG kick to it. I'm sure that partial extract is indeed good. But it's expensive around here. And I'm talking $50-$55 expensive. Then shipping comes into play if I go on-line for it. I've made 2 good brews from Cooper's so far. The one in my avatar is more of a malt-forward English ale,the second more of a doppel bock. I may yet spring for a Brewer's Best kit to give it a try. Just to see what all the raving is about. Might even be fun.?...

That's fine, if you're happy with your beers. I would never tell anyone to change if they were totally happy with their beers.

I wonder if we went head-to-head with a Cooper's kit of yours vs. one of my beers which would be preferred?
 
That's fine, if you're happy with your beers. I would never tell anyone to change if they were totally happy with their beers.

I wonder if we went head-to-head with a Cooper's kit of yours vs. one of my beers which would be preferred?

Might be fun! I see where you're going with this. I understand the grain's freshness advantage. And just to get it out,I'm not settling for anything by way of cans. IDK,I just get something a bit different from can kits with other things added. Still pretty straight forward,but not what you'd expect,either. Once I get maybe one more bottled,it'd be nice to sit down with a few. And maybe some of my pit BBQ? I've been a student of that since I was a kid.Pop got me started on pit bbq & wine making. I often wondered what ever became of his beer stuff?
 
Might be fun! I see where you're going with this. I understand the grain's freshness advantage. And just to get it out,I'm not settling for anything by way of cans. IDK,I just get something a bit different from can kits with other things added. Still pretty straight forward,but not what you'd expect,either. Once I get maybe one more bottled,it'd be nice to sit down with a few. And maybe some of my pit BBQ? I've been a student of that since I was a kid.Pop got me started on pit bbq & wine making. I often wondered what ever became of his beer stuff?

It would be fun! I only get to Ohio (Youngstown) about once or twice a year, but it would be fun!
I have a friend who has Mr. Beer and loves it. The beers are, well, ok. I mean she loves them, but I never turn down a free beer. The beers have a certain extract "twang" and a canned taste. But over all they aren't terrible. I'd say they are "ok" but not good if I had to label it. It's always fun tasting other homebrews and critiquing them.
In your area, one of my favorite beers in Burning River. I make a pale ale very much like it (all cascade) but it's just a little bit better in my opinion because it's missing that certain "flavor" that Great Lakes has in all their beers. If I ever get down your way, I'll bring you some!
 
It would be fun! I only get to Ohio (Youngstown) about once or twice a year, but it would be fun!
I have a friend who has Mr. Beer and loves it. The beers are, well, ok. I mean she loves them, but I never turn down a free beer. The beers have a certain extract "twang" and a canned taste. But over all they aren't terrible. I'd say they are "ok" but not good if I had to label it. It's always fun tasting other homebrews and critiquing them.
In your area, one of my favorite beers in Burning River. I make a pale ale very much like it (all cascade) but it's just a little bit better in my opinion because it's missing that certain "flavor" that Great Lakes has in all their beers. If I ever get down your way, I'll bring you some!

Cool! I'm about 2 hours west of Summit Racing in Akron. Let me know when you get out this way. Around the 3rd week of April,my Summer Pale should be ready. I'll have to fight to save some of the one in my avatar,though. I' guess I'll have to try to save a couple,just in case. From watching vids,& reading descriptions,the extract "twang" is a quinine-like flavor. As described by steeljan,anyway. I think it's just the Pride of Ringwood hops used for bittering. Maybe something from the yeast?
And Great Lakes is ok,but but the only one they make that I've liked so far was the Christmas one.
 
I'm still a newbie, but, have made about 4 batches of Coopers (and the like) and the end results were always very heavy and sweet. Drinkable, but not even close to what I'd buy in a bottle from a major brand or microbrewery. Came to this site to find out what I was doing wrong and had many people say it's just how those kits are if you follow the directions (various sugars left behind by the yeast).

I bought a kit online, extract kit that came with hops and grains and involved steeping and numerous boils etc.

I have the very basic brewing kit, only thing I needed extra was a 30qt cooking pot to switch from using the can-kits to the partial extract. It's only a week old but, the sample I took to check with my hydrometer already smelled and tasted more like a traditional beer than the Cooper type beer kits.

I know you said you wanted to stick with the brew and go kits, but may want to consider what I did if, like me, the beer made with can-kits were disappointing.

... just hoping this batch isn't.
 
Usually,if it comes out too sweet,it wasn't done fermenting yet. Or the temp went too far one way or the other,& the yeast went dormant. It didn't ferment all the way out. That's why I preach so much about how extract can kits & the like are quicker,but not necessarily easier.
Just another set of rules to follow,as it's been in my experience/knowledge thus far. And the hydrometer,combined with common sense is your greatest tool.
 
Im going to have to try one of these just for the experience. I actually got unispired with what to brew next and decided to use my tap water and brewed a similar beer as previously from a few weeks ago as opposed to using filtered or store bought spring and distilled for extract.
 
Usually,if it comes out too sweet,it wasn't done fermenting yet. Or the temp went too far one way or the other,& the yeast went dormant. It didn't ferment all the way out. That's why I preach so much about how extract can kits & the like are quicker,but not necessarily easier.
Just another set of rules to follow,as it's been in my experience/knowledge thus far. And the hydrometer,combined with common sense is your greatest tool.

I don't know, was a while back... tried a few times, even left it in the fermenter a few extra weeks with no luck. Alcohol % was fine, fermentation stopped... not sure if the yeast died (on all 4 attempts) or what.

Original thread was here. Had a few suggestions, but most seemed to suggest not using the can-kits.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/will-beer-get-less-sweet-age-166665/
 
I don't know, was a while back... tried a few times, even left it in the fermenter a few extra weeks with no luck. Alcohol % was fine, fermentation stopped... not sure if the yeast died (on all 4 attempts) or what.

Original thread was here. Had a few suggestions, but most seemed to suggest not using the can-kits.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/will-beer-get-less-sweet-age-166665/

Whew! I needed a beer & some vodka after all my preaching about Cooper's. I honestly don't see why so many have problems with it. I just learned to make sure pitch temp is no higher than,say 24C (75F). And keep brew temp to 20C (69F). That way,you minimize production of the fruity esters inherent in ale yeasts,& keep diecityls at bay. Not to mention,fusel alcohols (the so-called "hot" alcohols). Like I've been saying,canned extract kits have a whole different set of rules to follow. I don't care what anybody says. I've learned,& learned quickly. Being retired with a large family,I damn well better. Necessity is the mother of invention. That's why I still think my "recombinant extract theory" can work.
 
I'm sure there are ways to make it work... being a newbie myself I'm just trying to get a batch to work before I start experimenting. :)
 
Jamil and John did an episode of Brew Strong on Extract kits. They 'discovered' to Jamil's amazement that kits don't get the respect that they should deserve. It really boils down to freshness of ingredients and the brewers process. The biggest majority of 'bad' beers truly is the brewers fault. They pretty much support unionrdr's points.

http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/698
 
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