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Old 09-05-2012, 08:58 PM   #871
jmd1971
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Feb 2012
Weymouth, MA
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For that grain bill, a 7.5 gal pot would be quite tight, but doable. As mentioned previously, you could scale down the water for the mash/boil & just top up in the fermenter. Should get you to approx the same end beer....



 
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Old 09-06-2012, 12:38 AM   #872
MMJfan
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May 2012
Wooster, OH, Ohio
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So it is OK to use a little less water for the mash/boil and then add water to the fermenter to top it off at 5 gallons like you can do with extract brewing?

I've also saw where someone put their bag with grains in a bottling bucket and heated 3 gallons of water to 160 and then poured the hot water into the bottling bucket and let that sit for an hour and then drained using the spigot into another bucket. During the hour mash, they heated another 3 gallons of water to 170 degrees and then poured that over the grain bag and let it sparge for another 20 minutes. They then combined the buckets back into the kettle and boilded like usual.

This seems like an effective way of doing things as well?

If I can just top off the fermenter with water to get my 5 gallons, I might just do it that way though. Less equipment and mess to clean up in the end...



 
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Old 09-06-2012, 12:47 AM   #873
jmd1971
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Feb 2012
Weymouth, MA
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Keep it simple. Forget the sparge. Just mash in the 7+ gals, boil, transfer to carboy & top to 5 gals. You'll be fine. Don't over think it - the beauty of BIAB is its complete simplicity. When you start introducing sparging, etc., you move away from the initial intention. Just my IMO...

 
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Old 09-06-2012, 01:08 AM   #874
MMJfan
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May 2012
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Cool. Sounds like a plan jmd...

 
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Old 09-06-2012, 02:07 AM   #875
ArcLight
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May 2011
Millburn, NJ
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>>So it is OK to use a little less water for the mash/boil and then add water to the fermenter to top it off at 5 gallons like you can do with extract brewing?

Yes.


You don't have to mash super thin, you can hold a bit back, and sparge with the extra. Its not that hard, and will get you a few gravity points, and your mash will still be thin, but not super thin. You dont want too high a Ph Mash which you may get if it's super thin (10# and 7.5 gallons).

 
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:52 AM   #876
Fordzilla
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Nov 2011
Rochester, NY
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How do you take a pre-boil gravity reading? Won't 150 degree water cause the reading to be way off, and possibly crack my hydrometer from the rapid temperature change? Seems like it would take a long time for it to cool off enough for me to take a reading.

 
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:59 AM   #877
Mysticmead
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Jan 2010
Kingston, GA
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if you take the sample and place the sample tube in an ice bath (1 liter beer mugs work great) it'll cool fairly quickly. that said, I rarely take a pre-boil gravity test. in fact I only do it the firs 1 or 2 times I brew a recipe. if they're close (or on the nose!) and the post boil gravity is close, then I know my efficiency was in the range for the recipe. After that, I just take a post boil gravity reading.

 
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Old 09-07-2012, 12:02 PM   #878
mb82
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Apr 2012
Charlottesville, Va
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordzilla View Post
How do you take a pre-boil gravity reading? Won't 150 degree water cause the reading to be way off, and possibly crack my hydrometer from the rapid temperature change? Seems like it would take a long time for it to cool off enough for me to take a reading.
I put the wort into the clear plastic case my hydrometer came in and put that into an icewater bath. It is not a lot of wort and it cools to useable temps in a few minutes.

 
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Old 09-07-2012, 12:03 PM   #879
jmd1971
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Feb 2012
Weymouth, MA
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Or get a refractometer. Then it's temp adjusted if you get a temp adjusted model...

 
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Old 09-07-2012, 02:51 PM   #880
pnj
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Mar 2009
seattle
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mashing with 9-10# of grain. 7.5 gallon pot.



 
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