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Old 09-10-2011, 10:51 AM   #271
wilserbrewer
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Well, two ways to sparge w/ BIAB. You can either dunk the bag in sparge water in another pot or vessel, or you can place the bag on a screen or colander above your pot and pour your sparge water through the grain bag. You can also just pour the sparge water gently over / through the bag of grain as it is suspended above the kettle. A ratchet pulley works very well for this, as well as hoisting grain bags.



edit...your second vessel need not be a pot, an hdpe bucket will aslo suffice in a pinch. Also if you are limited, you could perform a cold sparge w/ unheated water if your limited.

 
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Old 09-10-2011, 01:22 PM   #272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalShip View Post
This question may have been answered already but how does one sparge when doing BIAB? I only have a 7.5 gallon kettle and would like to make bigger beers but cannot fit the full grain bill and preboil volume of water into it. I brewed a beer with 12# of grain and filled the thing to the brim but still came up short after the mash. Any suggestions?
the most common way is to dunk sparge. this is taking the grain bag and dunking it into a second pot with the rest of the water needed. another way would to be slowly pouring sparge water though the grain bag while its suspended over the grain. you can suspend it by either a rope and pulley setup or by placing something over the brew kettle to hold the bag (grill grate or colander). both have worked for others. I suggest getting a bigger brew pot.

 
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:32 AM   #273
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Yes, a larger pot is needed. Bigger beers (1060) are a challenge and a pain. You need more mash water and you also need to then boil it all off. Best and least painless way is to plan on adding some DME or LME to pump the OG.

 
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:11 AM   #274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewitt View Post
My preboil was 1.042 at about 7.5 gallons. My post boil was 1.048 at 6.5 gallons. I let BeerAlchemy calculate the efficiency. Your calculator gave me 62.5%. It was a 5 gallon batch in a 13 gallon pot starting with about 8.25 gallons.
This has been bugging me and I finally figured it out, I think. Your water water far too little. BIAB is usually done with all the water used in the mash process, including sparge and water absorbed by the grain. At 4 qts per pound (2 for mash and 2 for sparge), 13.25 lbs of grain requires 13.25 gallons plus another 6.5 qts or so for the grain. That surely affected your efficiency.

 
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Old 09-11-2011, 12:40 PM   #275
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I have a very similar method but I would NEVER squeeze the grains... I wait until the dripping slows then I slowly shower the grains with a little sparge water. Squeezing will surly release tannins that will give you off flavors.

 
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Old 09-11-2011, 01:11 PM   #276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrewinMAINEiac View Post
I have a very similar method but I would NEVER squeeze the grains... I wait until the dripping slows then I slowly shower the grains with a little sparge water. Squeezing will surly release tannins that will give you off flavors.
Greetings from the other Maine.. ;-)

I always squeeze my bag. Never had an issue.

(Boy, that just sounds wrong.. lol)
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Old 09-11-2011, 02:19 PM   #277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrewinMAINEiac
I have a very similar method but I would NEVER squeeze the grains... I wait until the dripping slows then I slowly shower the grains with a little sparge water. Squeezing will surly release tannins that will give you off flavors.
That's purely a myth. Squeezing does nothing to tannins. Think about out. A commercial brewery uses a LOT more grain than we do. The weight of those grains alone exerts more pressure than you ever will by squeezing. Tannins require heat AND mainly PH.

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Old 09-11-2011, 02:23 PM   #278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mysticmead

That's purely a myth. Squeezing does nothing to tannins. Think about out. A commercial brewery uses a LOT more grain than we do. The weight of those grains alone exerts more pressure than you ever will by squeezing. Tannins require heat AND mainly PH.

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+1. I always squeeze my bag. Actually I push down on it with a cookie sheet while it sits on a grate over the top of my kettle. Never a problem. Pure myth.

I'm sure if you oversparged, raised the pH with your tap water and then put it into a press you'd surely extract tannin. But let's be reasonable.

 
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Old 09-11-2011, 03:16 PM   #279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewitt View Post
My preboil was 1.042 at about 7.5 gallons. My post boil was 1.048 at 6.5 gallons. I let BeerAlchemy calculate the efficiency. Your calculator gave me 62.5%. It was a 5 gallon batch in a 13 gallon pot starting with about 8.25 gallons.
I don't know if it was the amount of water. That puts the mash thickness around 2.5. It's high, but not too high. Did stir the hell out of the mash? Wheat will give you some crazy dough balls since it doesn't have husks. That alone could drastically reduce your efficiency.
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:52 PM   #280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seabass07 View Post
I don't know if it was the amount of water. That puts the mash thickness around 2.5. It's high, but not too high. Did stir the hell out of the mash? Wheat will give you some crazy dough balls since it doesn't have husks. That alone could drastically reduce your efficiency.

2.5 for the mash thickness is fine.. we're talking BIAB here.. a mash thickness of 3 is considered normal

 
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