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Old 09-03-2013, 01:03 AM   #1741
Bmooreskier
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Long story short, I did a slow cool of my wort over night in the fermenter, my mom pitched the yeast the next night. I came back 5 days later to a dried-out airlock. Am I screwed?

 
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:36 AM   #1742
Brewitt
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Possibly but probably not. It is possible that there was a layer of CO2 over the beer the whole time and, if you didn't get contamination by the time it fermented out, you might be fine. Take a hydrometer sample, measure the specific gravity and, while you are at it, take a taste and put something in that airlock. I'm gonna guess your ok as long as mom didn't contaminate it on the way in and your carboy is not sitting somewhere really scummy.
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:36 PM   #1743
Bmooreskier
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Filled the airlock with vodka. Unfortunately I will be away from it for another month and a half as I am at school, and they are not too fond of students having fermenters in their closets :/ Its in a fairly clean basement. Guess I'll just have to wait and see. What would the gravity reading indicate? Extra fermentation? It's a sweet stout so I doubt the alcohol content would help kill anything

 
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:40 PM   #1744
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The gravity reading would just tell you whether your fermentation is done. Once you fill the airlock, nothing much will happen if it wasn't already contaminated. Its also correct that if there is a lot of alcohol, many, but not all, bugs will grow poorly, if at all. That is, if they got in after fermentation was well under way. However, if you use vodka in the airlock, it will be evaporated well before a month. I would use water or, if you really want to make sure it wont evaporate, make a blow off tube that goes into a big bottle of water.
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Old 09-18-2013, 08:23 PM   #1745
Hayseed
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I used this tutorial yesterday afternoon , pitching yeast at 7 pm . Worked super for my first shot in new territory coming off without a hitch ! Blow off was bubbling like a motor boat this morn

 
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:41 PM   #1746
Nompton
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Sep 2013
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Followed tutorial to a point for a Christmas Red Ale. Ended up with 79.X% efficiency. Really impressed.
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Old 10-14-2013, 11:32 AM   #1747
ggriffi
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Since my pot is going to be too small for my grain bill after checking rackers I have a couple of questions about dunk sparging. I apologize if these have been answered in the thread earlier.

1) When I sparge should the water in my second pot be the same temp as my boil kettle?

2) Can I/ Should I squeeze the bag for both kettles?

tia,

g
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Old 10-14-2013, 11:50 AM   #1748
wilserbrewer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggriffi View Post
Since my pot is going to be too small for my grain bill after checking rackers I have a couple of questions about dunk sparging. I apologize if these have been answered in the thread earlier.

1) When I sparge should the water in my second pot be the same temp as my boil kettle?

2) Can I/ Should I squeeze the bag for both kettles?

tia,

g
1) Sparge water temperature is not that critical, 180 is a good place to be, you basicly want to keep the mash below 170. You can even sparge with room temp sparge water if it's easier, but then it will take longer to heat to boil.

2) Yes, you can squeeze the bag to extract more liquid, both from the mash and sparge.

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Old 10-14-2013, 03:06 PM   #1749
MMJfan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggriffi View Post
Since my pot is going to be too small for my grain bill after checking rackers I have a couple of questions about dunk sparging. I apologize if these have been answered in the thread earlier.

1) When I sparge should the water in my second pot be the same temp as my boil kettle?

2) Can I/ Should I squeeze the bag for both kettles?

tia,

g
I use a 2 kettle system as my boil kettle is only 7.5 gal. I mash my grains in my boil kettle for 60 min. at whatever the mash temp calls for. Once the 60 minutes is up, I then add heat to my boil kettle and do a mash out (usually I heat up to around 170F). I then let the grains rest for another 10 minutes or so and while they are resting, I heat up some water in a smaller kettle to 170F for my sparge. Once the sparge water is up to temp, I pull the grains and let them drain in my boil kettle and then place them in my sparge kettle and let them rest for an additional 20 minutes. I then pull the bag and let it drain and then add the liquid from the sparge kettle to my boil kettle and that usually gets me to my desired pre-boil volume. If I'm a little short I do squeeze the bag to get more liquid to add.

I've used this system since about my 2nd or 3rd BIAB batches and have had great success using it with efficiencies consistently in the mid to upper 70's...

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Old 10-14-2013, 03:09 PM   #1750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggriffi View Post
Since my pot is going to be too small for my grain bill after checking rackers I have a couple of questions about dunk sparging. I apologize if these have been answered in the thread earlier.

1) When I sparge should the water in my second pot be the same temp as my boil kettle?

2) Can I/ Should I squeeze the bag for both kettles?

tia,

g
#1 I shoot for 180F for the sparge water.

#2 Sure, I squeeze the crap out of my bag. I put it in my stock basket then I put a bucket on top of the grain bag nearly full of water, then I press down on it hard, squeezes a LOT of water out of the grain.

I had to improvise this weekend because my 42qt pot has two small pinholes in it (damnit) and had to use my turkey fryer pot (I think it's 28 maybe 34 quarts) so I did a 4 gallon mash @149 for 90 minutes and a 3 gallon sparge @170 for a Tripel with a 12 lb grain bill. The recipe called for 1.081 OG I measured at 1.080 so I was happy with my outcome. And the wort tasted heavenly I can't wait for it to be ready to keg.

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