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11-21-2012, 07:14 AM   #1081
241

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Sep 2012
San Diego, CA
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Thanks! I am going to check that out right now. Also I may just go out and boil for an hour and calculate based on that... something about plugging in arbitrary numbers is unsettling to me.

11-21-2012, 09:00 AM   #1082
mirogster
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May 2011
New York, New York
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Yup, on top of that, those guys Down Under from BIABrewer.info (com), are at finishing stage for releasing BIABacus. Web based (so far most sophisticated - but easy to operate) calculator for BIABz = actually few years of development and it's almost ready Sooon......

11-21-2012, 09:39 AM   #1083
SiriusStarr

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Sep 2012
Chicago, IL
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by 241 Thanks! I am going to check that out right now. Also I may just go out and boil for an hour and calculate based on that... something about plugging in arbitrary numbers is unsettling to me.
Since it costs nothing but time and a bit of gas/electricity, I'd do it just to have a good sense of what your numbers are. If you don't boil on full on your burner, I'd pick the level you want to use and then mark the knob so you can always boil at a consistent level in the future.

Also, be sure to take into account thermal expansion if you're trying to be precise. If your starting volume is measured at 20C and your ending volume at 80C, your number is going to be off by a few percent of your total volume. So if you are anal about your numbers like me, either measure the temperature and make certain to cool off your final volume to the loading temperature or (and this is what I did) use a scale and measure by mass. If you just measure the mass of your kettle + water before and after the hour boil, then you know the mass of water lost and can trivially convert that to volume (1 kg / L @ 4C).
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11-21-2012, 12:56 PM   #1084

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Kingston, GA
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by 241 So how much water should I start with? I have a 10 gallon megapot that has a 17" diameter. I have an extra bucket which I'll use with a colander to get the remaining wort out of my bag, and will be re-adding that remaining wort back into my pot. I've only done extracts so far and I've always started with around 6 gal and ended up with 5 in the fermenter. I'm assuming this would be about the same but I'm not sure with grain absorption... Any help would be appreciated!
simple math here...that's all it takes.

absorption + batch size + boil off + trub loss = water needed.

absorption = grain weight in pounds * 0.06

here's an example from my last batch. oatmeal stout using 14 pounds of grain. I know my boil off rate in my 10 gallon pot is 1.25/hr and trub loss is 0.25 gallon. this was for a 5.5 gallon batch
14*0.06 = .84 gallons of water absorbed by grain (this accounts for me squeezing the bag. if you squeeze harder use a smaller number, if you don't squeeze at all use a larger number)
0.84+5.5+1.25+0.25= 7.84 gallons.
I rounded this up to 8 gallons to make it easier to measure. I could have gone down to 7.75 and still be fine. One you know your boil off and trub loss, this will be a simple part of the brew day. it takes just a few seconds and will be fairly accurate. I hit my numbers on the nose last batch, as well as the 20 before it..

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11-21-2012, 04:50 PM   #1085
241

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Sep 2012
San Diego, CA
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Mysticmead simple math here...that's all it takes. absorption + batch size + boil off + trub loss = water needed. absorption = grain weight in pounds * 0.06 here's an example from my last batch. oatmeal stout using 14 pounds of grain. I know my boil off rate in my 10 gallon pot is 1.25/hr and trub loss is 0.25 gallon. this was for a 5.5 gallon batch 14*0.06 = .84 gallons of water absorbed by grain (this accounts for me squeezing the bag. if you squeeze harder use a smaller number, if you don't squeeze at all use a larger number) 0.84+5.5+1.25+0.25= 7.84 gallons. I rounded this up to 8 gallons to make it easier to measure. I could have gone down to 7.75 and still be fine. One you know your boil off and trub loss, this will be a simple part of the brew day. it takes just a few seconds and will be fairly accurate. I hit my numbers on the nose last batch, as well as the 20 before it..
This was exactly what I needed (an example with the formula and the absorption definition). iBrewsmith said I needed a similar number I came up with out of using this formula. Good stuff!

11-22-2012, 12:54 AM   #1086
OldDirty
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Nov 2012
Peoples Socialist Republic of Chicago
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Mysticmead simple math here...that's all it takes. absorption + batch size + boil off + trub loss = water needed. absorption = grain weight in pounds * 0.06 here's an example from my last batch. oatmeal stout using 14 pounds of grain. I know my boil off rate in my 10 gallon pot is 1.25/hr and trub loss is 0.25 gallon. this was for a 5.5 gallon batch 14*0.06 = .84 gallons of water absorbed by grain (this accounts for me squeezing the bag. if you squeeze harder use a smaller number, if you don't squeeze at all use a larger number) 0.84+5.5+1.25+0.25= 7.84 gallons. I rounded this up to 8 gallons to make it easier to measure. I could have gone down to 7.75 and still be fine. One you know your boil off and trub loss, this will be a simple part of the brew day. it takes just a few seconds and will be fairly accurate. I hit my numbers on the nose last batch, as well as the 20 before it..
This and a crowded grain bag explains why my pre-boil gravity was low. I used 7.5g of water in my keggle with a crowded 10# grain bill! I'll be dropping my water by .5g and go from there with a new big bag.

11-25-2012, 09:19 PM   #1087
Antler
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Mar 2011
Carbonear, Nl
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I recently read about some of the Aussie guys doing 2.5 - 3hr mash times. Has anyone tried this and find any real benefits? Unless you still do a sparge to rinse the grains I can't imagine much of a benefit, but one guy wrote he had up to 97% efficiency doing 3hr mash times!

11-26-2012, 03:29 PM   #1088
MMJfan
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May 2012
Wooster, OH, Ohio
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I thought the point of doing BIAB was to save time? Three hour mash? No thanks...

11-26-2012, 04:00 PM   #1089
solbes
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Jul 2011
Ramsey & Akeley, Mn
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No need to do 3 hour mash times unless you are doing large batches on a VERY tight budget. An extra 10% efficiency (which is hard to accomplish when you are already @ 80-85%) results in a savings of just 1 lb of grain for an average gravity 5 gallon batch.

Buying 2row in 50 lb sacks for \$35, you're only saving \$0.70 for an extra 2 hours of mashing
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11-26-2012, 04:27 PM   #1090
BroStefan
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Jan 2012
St Cloud, MN
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by MMJfan I thought the point of doing BIAB was to save time? Three hour mash? No thanks...
I've.done several BIAB batches and never gone more than 60 minutes and sometimes less. No problem. Not sure what's up with the Aussie 3 hour mash.

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