I don' like full bodied ales and prefer a fizzier, light coloured easy to drink beer like what I am used to. And my wife likes it and my friends all drink it by the bucketful.
Okay, not really but to show I am not always an EAC here’s some pointers for those that do.
Millions of people like to drink Bud/Miller/Coors (BMC) style beers. These beers are loosely grouped under the style of American Pilsners although they have little in common to a true Pilsner. They are light in colour and body and lightly hopped.
So how is it made?
Well Beer is made from Water, Malt, Hops and Yeast. The main addition to this is the use of corn or rice because it is cheap, adds very little body, colour or flavour to the beer, which is what gives it its properties. The corn and rice is unmalted so relies on the enzymes from the malted barley to convert the starch from the rice/corn to fermentable sugars. Because of this 6 row barley is used because of its higher diastic properties. To help beer production take less space instead of brewing lots of weak beer some of the breweries brew a stronger beer and then water it down at production.
If you are going to try this then you should be aware that because there are no heavy or strong flavours and off flavours caused by method or ingredients will show through and not be masked so fresh ingredients should be used.
UK 2 row pale malts are generally to dark for pilsners and don’t have enough diastic power, so a US 2 row or German Pilsner 2 row can be used. 6 row has a grainier profile than 2 row hence the reason for using some 2 row.
To get Corn into the mash then you can use; Flaked maize which is pre-gelatinised and add it to your mash. Corn syrup can be added late to the kettle. You can also use corn grits but they need a separate mash. The same goes for flaked maize, rice syrup and rice grits.
Obviously a lot off American hops are used although some foreign styles of hops are grown domestically as well as some imports are used. Importantly the bitterness is low at around 10-14 IBU.
Obviously a lager yeast is the best bet. It’s difficult to tell what the big boys use bit an American Lager yeast is a good choice, like Wyeast 2035 os similar.
So far we have an outline of the beer.
OG 1040 - 1045
FG 1005 – 1007
SRM - ~ 2-4
So from the info above we can put a list together.
2 row pale or pilsner malt
6 row pale palt
Rice or Corn adjunct
Hops from the list of : Noble, Cascade, Willamette, Spalt, Newport, Sterling and a few others.
Yeast. Lager, American, Wyeast 2035.
A good clean tasting water is a must especially if you plan to brew strong and water it down. Sterilised water can help with this but you’ll need to add brewing salts to it. You can also use Camden tablets to take out chloramines and boil to remove chlorine.
Now that info above is well is enough to get you well in the way to understanding how to brew a BMC style beer.
Now this is where the EAC bit comes in. I’d say it’s all toooo much effort and it’s much easier toy just go buy a case for $20 dollars or what ever it costs and use your brew time to brew a Real Ale worth the effort. But because I’m in a good mood here’s a little more info.
You need to mash for a highly fermentable wort, which means at the lower end of the mashing scale maybe 150-152 or if you have the inclination ability to step mash then do some lower temp steps with a rest at 140 really helping to get a dry beer. I’m no expert on step mashes so can’t really help more than that.
With sparging clarity is important so fly sparging can help or at least returning plenty of the first mash back to the mash when batch sparging. You need to be careful not to sparge bellow around 1010.
A good boil is required to make sure you boil off any DMS and allow a good hot break.
That’s enough for now. If any one who is less of an EAC wants to pick up on the actual recipes, hop additions, fermenting ageing and carbing schedules please feel free.
Important SUPER CHILL it or it'll taste like crap because you'll actually taste it.
I’m off for a Real Beer.
Well as you can see, brewing a Bud is not really a viable option for most hombrewers, especially noobs.
But if you really must and feel the need, I'd look at this for an option. There is a down side. It may be better than Bud and you may have to suffer some taste in the beer. (What a shame)
Budweiser Clone (BYO)
by Karl Glarner Jr.
This is a great, easy-to-make pilsner-style beer made with ale yeast — no lagering
required. Comes close to many commercial light pilsners, with just a bit more flavor. (5
• 2.5 lbs. extra light dry malt extract
• 1.5 lbs. light honey
• 1 oz. Cascade hops (6% alpha acid): 0.25 oz. for 60 min., 0.25 oz. for 30 min.,
0.5 oz. for steeping
• 1 tsp. Irish moss for 15 min.
• 1 tsp. gypsum
• Wyeast 1056 (American ale) or Yeast Lab Canadian ale (AO7)
• 3/4 cup corn sugar for priming
Step by Step:
Bring 2 gal. water to boil. Remove from heat and add dry malt, honey, and gypsum. Return
to boil. Total boil is 60 min. Add 0.25 oz. Cascade and boil for 30 min. Add 0.25 oz. Cascade
and boil for 15 min. more. Add Irish moss and boil for 15 min. more. Turn off heat, add 0.5
oz. Cascade hops, and steep for 2 min. Pour into fermenter and top up with cold, preboiled
water. When cooled below 70° F pitch yeast.
Ferment seven to 10 days in primary at 70° F or below, then transfer to secondary and
ferment another seven days. Prime and bottle.
Here's some more
Recommended recipe - I dried the crap out of this one...