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Old 09-13-2005, 11:54 PM   #11

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeRoux's Broux
i got my latest issue of Brew Your Own at lunch in the mail, and it has a big story on the best ways to improve your extract brews. you extract guy's may want to check it out..........
Got mine in the mail today and noticed that. Was going to post here, but you beat me to it!



 
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Old 09-14-2005, 12:27 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhoobarb
Got mine in the mail today and noticed that. Was going to post here, but you beat me to it!
Man...I got mine a week and a half ago!!!

The issue before this month's was AWESOME. Some good stuff in this issue too though.


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Old 09-14-2005, 12:30 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertBrew
I was told at an AG training class (but applies to extract as well) that you should boil about 15 minutes before you add any hops to achieve your hot break. Then go to your normal boil schedule. This was commentary from a brewmaster who was monitoring the class. So for me that's 15 minutes (or whenever the hot break occurs) and then I start the timer for 60m.

I need to do more research on hot and cold break. Everyone makes such a big deal out of it and I'm not getting it.
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Old 09-14-2005, 12:59 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ORRELSE
I need to do more research on hot and cold break. Everyone makes such a big deal out of it and I'm not getting it.
Maybe you are, but just don't know what to look for?
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Old 09-14-2005, 04:13 AM   #15
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Okay, what do hot and cold break mean?

Also, so far I have only been able to boil a small amount of the total brew. That means that most of the wort is made up with cold water, so I get room temp. virtually instantly that way...

I need to get a big brew pot...

 
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Old 09-14-2005, 01:49 PM   #16
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yep, i've read that to desertbrew. i do 90 min boils, and start my hop addtions @ 75 min. i did the numbers on ProMash, and adding bittering hops @ 75 min vs. adding @ 60 min was not a difference. "they" say it helps to boil off any chlorine or other chemicals used in muni waters too......
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Old 09-14-2005, 01:50 PM   #17
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The hot break is when the proteins in the wort coagulate and drop to the bottom of the brew pot.

Cold break is when the wort is cooled rapidly, and it causes further proteins and other undesirables to precipitate out of the liquid.

Ideally, you want to leave both the cold and hot break out of the fermenter, since they offer nothing other than potential for off flavors and sediment in the vessel.

My hot break is never obvious to me, but I know it happens, because the crud is on the bottom of the pot.

My cold break 'seems' obvious to me. I dump my hot wort (3 gallons) into a bottling bucket and drop in 2 gallons of ice made and stir. The temp drops to about 80 degrees in a matter of minutes, and then I let it set for 20 minutes while the solid stuff drops to the bottom of the bucket.

Then I rack to my big carboy, pitch the yeast slurry, and off she goes.

-walker
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Old 09-14-2005, 02:15 PM   #18
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or, after the wort is cooled to about 80 degrees, do a big whirlpool w/ your stainless spoon and let that hot/cold break settle out for about 15 minutes, then rack/transfer to the primary. all the goo will be on the bootom of the pot from the whirlpooling effect. that's what the big boy's do.......

soory rhoobarb, didn't mean to rob your thunder!
hey orrelse, it takes a while for the pack mules to reach SE Texas! we usually get our Christmas cards by Mardi Gras :~)
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Old 09-14-2005, 02:23 PM   #19
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Is there any truth that skimming off the foam when the wort begins its boil will reduce the amount of hot break left in the kettle?
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Old 09-14-2005, 02:48 PM   #20
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i believe this is true. that foam is what eventually sinks to the bottom, so removing it shoudl reduce the amount that sinks.

However, I don't know if you will be removing any 'good stuff' if you do this.

-walker


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