American Amber Ale Broken Leg House Amber

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Yooper

Ale's What Cures You!
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Joined
Jun 4, 2006
Messages
75,108
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Location
UP/Snowbird in Florida
Recipe Type
All Grain
Yeast
SO4 is fine!
Batch Size (Gallons)
5.25
Original Gravity
1.050
Final Gravity
1.010
Boiling Time (Minutes)
60
IBU
34.9
Color
15/7
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp)
14 at 63 degrees
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp)
For dryhopping
Tasting Notes
This was an attempt of a \"hopped up\" Bell\'s Amber. It turned out perfectly!
Amount Item Type % or IBU
7 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 62.22 %
2 lbs Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 17.78 %
1 lbs 4.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 11.11 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (80.0 SRM) Grain 8.89 %

1.50 oz Williamette [4.80 %] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 26.8 IBU
1.00 oz Williamette [4.80 %] (10 min) Hops 5.9 IBU
0.50 oz Cascade [5.40 %] (5 min) Hops 1.8 IBU
0.50 oz Cascade [5.40 %] (1 min) Hops 0.4 IBU
0.50 oz Williamette [4.80 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops

1.00 oz Williamette [4.80 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
1.00 oz Cascade (homegrown) [5.00 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -

1 Pkgs SafAle English Ale (DCL Yeast #S-04)

The key for this beer is to mash no higher than 152, so it attenuates well. The balance of hops/malt is key. The water profile used here was very good, balanced, with low alkalinity, and the beer is clear with so4. Control fermentation temperatures to minimize fruity esters, or use s05 if warmer. If underattenuation is a problem for you, use Wyeast 1056, or WLP001 which is "clean" and attenuates better than S04.



This beer is a hopped up amber- but with the willamette and cascade combo it's not as aggressive as some hoppy beers can be. I've made it several times, and like the clarity with the S04 but it needs cooler temps or it can get estery. S05 works well with this beer, but needs more time to clear than S04. If unable to keep fermentation temperatures under 64 degrees, I think S05 would be a better choice!

We like this beer alot- and it's now a house standard. I got willamette at $6 a pound, so wanted to use it in something that I can enjoy 10 gallons of. This is it!
 
Sounds delishy. Nice use of Williamette, one of my faves. I fish the Williamette river here in Oregon all the time. Ill brew this to kick off the bass fishing season. Thanks Yooper!
 
Any tips on converting this to a 5 gal extract batch. I just picked up a bunch of local gown willametts and cascades and this sounds perfect. Thanks
 
Nice looking recipe Yooper. I have a pound of Willamette just waiting to be brewed!
Care to tease us with a pic of a pint?

The last keg kicked in Texas, a few weeks ago, and I'm not brewing it again until next week. But I'll try to remember to post a picture in about 6 weeks!

Any tips on converting this to a 5 gal extract batch. I just picked up a bunch of local gown willametts and cascades and this sounds perfect. Thanks

Sure!

3 pounds Munich LME (Northern Brewer has it)
3 pounds light or extra light DME
1 pound crystal 40L
.75 pound crystal 80L

Hopping the same- but use the FWH as bittering hops. You will want to add the LME at 15 minutes in the boil.

I lowered the crystal, because sometimes extracts don't finish as well so I cut the crystal. I'd also suggest using a yeast like pacman, which is a workhorse to help beers attenuate better and finish with a lower FG thatn S04 would.
 
Thanks Yooper I can't Wait to brew this. One more question, do I keep the hop amounts as well as the schedule the same. Also thanx so much for the extract conversion as I am a noob ant this will be my first non kit batch. Are the dry hops added together for the last 7 days ?
 
Thanks Yooper I can't Wait to brew this. One more question, do I keep the hop amounts as well as the schedule the same. Also thanx so much for the extract conversion as I am a noob ant this will be my first non kit batch. Are the dry hops added together for the last 7 days ?

Yes, the hops amounts and schedule would be the same. And I add both varieties of the dryops at the same time together.
 
I've seen several recipe lately that call for Williamette and this thread helped finally make my mind up. I just put in an order at Hops Direct and included a pound of 'em so this recipe's definitely on the list.:rockin:
 
brewed this up today (with extract ) and nailed the O.G. and now time to wait. Thanks again yooper !
 
Nice looking recipe Yooper. I have a pound of Willamette just waiting to be brewed!
Care to tease us with a pic of a pint?

Hey, I'm drinking this beer now! It's very young- brewed on 3/19! But we're drinking the first keg of it. Here is a picture:


DSCF5546.jpg

It's sorta dark in here, so the flash makes the beer look cloudy. But it's nice and clear!
 
I greatly dislike dry hopping, but like everything else about this beer so am giving it a try. Now actually. Would you add some extra finishing hops if you were to make this without dry hopping? Or just follow the regular hop schedule and skip the dry hops?
 
I greatly dislike dry hopping, but like everything else about this beer so am giving it a try. Now actually. Would you add some extra finishing hops if you were to make this without dry hopping? Or just follow the regular hop schedule and skip the dry hops?

Well, it wouldn't be the same but you can add them at flame out if you don't want to dryhop with them. The aroma would be totally different, though.
 
Thanks for the quick response! The last time I dry hopped I had a really strange off flavor which I blamed on the bag I used for dry hopping. I guess I'll just give dry hopping another shot and skip the bag, being careful when I siphon. Previously I dry hopped in a corny and didn't want to clog the dip tube. I'll just dry hop in another carboy this time.
 
Dang, Yooper. I thought your hopped-up amber was the "perfect beer" - you said so yourself. Now I guess I'll have to try this one too. Poor poor pitiful me. :)
 
Yoop, I think I'm gonna brew this as one of my first round batches (I'm ordering stuff for several batches at a time). What do you think of wyeast 1084 for this (extract version) so I don't have to buy to separate strains? If not no biggie as I'll probably buy wlp001 for an ipa in the next round anyway.

BTW - your recipes and advice in other threads have been really helpful to a noob! Cheers!
 
Yoop, I think I'm gonna brew this as one of my first round batches (I'm ordering stuff for several batches at a time). What do you think of wyeast 1084 for this (extract version) so I don't have to buy to separate strains? If not no biggie as I'll probably buy wlp001 for an ipa in the next round anyway.

BTW - your recipes and advice in other threads have been really helpful to a noob! Cheers!

I've never used 1084, so I can't say from experience. But it might be too fruity, especially if it gets above 64 degrees. I'd probably go with a dry yeast like S05 if you didn't have any 1056 or WLP001. The reason the S04 works for me is because it's not fruity when it's fermented cool, and it clears the beer so well leaving a clear beer behind.
 
I dont have a way to control temp yet. So i ferment in a mildly cool basement. ~68 what should i change in the receipt to accommodate the higher temp?
 
I used 60L crystal since I had it vice the 40L and 80L combo, and I used WLP001. Came out pretty tasty! Thanks for the recipe Yoop!

amber.jpg
 
So I just picked up the ingredients and plan on brewing this tomorrow. The only change I made was the yeast. I'm using Wyeast 1272 American Ale II. Ive never used it before and I like to experiment with new yeasts!

Here's my question... How quick can I expect to go grain to glass? I'm hoping to have this ready for a get together in a few weeks.

Thanks!
 
So i just finished brewing this and put it into a primary. I ended up with a little shy of 6 gallons (including 1/4 gallon yeast starter) and a final gravity of 1.058. This is the first amber ale that I have brewed (about my 10th all grain batch in all) so I was wondering... what should the target OG for this beer be?

I had to make some small adjustments due to my misreading of the recipe... I didn't see the "4 ounce" part in the crystal 40L measurement of 1lb 4 oz so I was 4 oz short on my total grain bill. For this reason I ran off an extra 1/2 to 3/4 gallon or so of wort from my MLT and boiled it down to about 6.5 g before starting my 60 minute countdown/first hop addition. Hopefully this didn't throw off my gravity too much.
 
So i just finished brewing this and put it into a primary. I ended up with a little shy of 6 gallons (including 1/4 gallon yeast starter) and a final gravity of 1.058. This is the first amber ale that I have brewed (about my 10th all grain batch in all) so I was wondering... what should the target OG for this beer be?

I had to make some small adjustments due to my misreading of the recipe... I didn't see the "4 ounce" part in the crystal 40L measurement of 1lb 4 oz so I was 4 oz short on my total grain bill. For this reason I ran off an extra 1/2 to 3/4 gallon or so of wort from my MLT and boiled it down to about 6.5 g before starting my 60 minute countdown/first hop addition. Hopefully this didn't throw off my gravity too much.

My OG was 1.050. You were slightly higher than I was!
 
Yooper said:
My OG was 1.050. You were slightly higher than I was!

Oh wow... Guess I overshot it a bit... Oops

How soon do you think I could be drinking this? I keg and am having people over in a few weeks for the first OU game (boomer sooner) and would LOVE to have this on the lineup!
 
This is a shot of my first runnings during vorlauf... If this is any indication of what the final product looks like this beer is gonna be gorgeous

It's not quite as dark as it looks in the picture but it's pretty close

image-2072101485.jpg
 
Yooper said:
My notes suggest that I was drinking this beer about three weeks after brewday, but it improved until 4 weeks after brewday.

Haha that's perfect... I have exactly 3 weeks and a day till the party
 
Yooper said:
My notes suggest that I was drinking this beer about three weeks after brewday, but it improved until 4 weeks after brewday.

Out of curiosity... What schedule did you use for your fermenters to get a 3 week turnaround?

I was thinking maybe 10 days in primary and 7 days in secondary with the last 3 days of the 7 in the secondary being a crash cool with gelatin? That would leave 3 to 4 days to carb?

This will be my first time kegging so any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
I brewed this tasty recipe last night as my first BIAB run on my new kettle. The wort color and hop aroma are both really enticing! I had a few minor issues due to the new equipment (overestimated boil-off, slightly undershot efficiency), so I'm expecting a moderately lighter bodied beer out of this. Still, I was close enough that I'm expecting good things in a few weeks.

The only real mistake I made was forgetting to tape my fermentation chamber's temp probe to the side of the bottle when I placed it in there. I set the thermostat for 63ºF, but since the probe was resting near the back of the chamber (where the cooling plate is), the beer spent it's first 10 hours or so of fermentation at 75º+. I've corrected this now and it is falling back down to 62º but extremely active fermentation is already well underway. I'm hoping the S-04 doesn't get too grumpy with me and produce to much estery off flavors.

Thanks for the great recipe, Yooper. I'm looking forward to this one.
 
Has anyone else brewed this yet? What were your results? I have the materials and will be going for it. I just wanted to see how it has turned out for others.
:)
 
Ok, 1 week in the fermentor, I just added the dry hop additions, and I am at 1.016, down from OG of 1.054.

1 more week until bottling.
 
Ok, 1 week in the fermentor, I just added the dry hop additions, and I am at 1.016, down from OG of 1.054.

1 more week until bottling.

Did you taste it? I was just telling my husband that we need this again, as it's one of our favorites but tomorrow I'm brewing a brown ale.
 
The only change I made was the yeast. I'm using Wyeast 1272 American Ale II. QUOTE]

I keep 1272 around as the 'house yeast.' Also considering brewing this recipe. What is the verdict? Should I follow Yooper's lead or save a few bucks by using what I have?

Any input?
 
OK.
To the point. I like it and I will do it again. I am glad I did it.

Useless rambling:

I was not initially impressed by the samples I took at bottling or when I dry hopped. Because I am an impatient weenie, I started to drink these at about 5 days in the bottle. I continued drinking one or two each day because I had no other beer. The taste was improving. I had some friends over and we had a few. The beer was still OK but I was not sold on it and I was thinking I could have used the hops for 2 more simple beers instead. At 2 weeks in the bottle I had 10 left and It was obvious that the beer was improving as it should be. At 14 days I had 2 or 3. I liked them... a lot. I now have 6 22oz bottles left and I am struggling to keep my hands off so that I can see what they are like in another week. Good stuff and I wish I would have been able to wait to start into them.
 
Out of curiosity... What schedule did you use for your fermenters to get a 3 week turnaround?

I was thinking maybe 10 days in primary and 7 days in secondary with the last 3 days of the 7 in the secondary being a crash cool with gelatin? That would leave 3 to 4 days to carb?

This will be my first time kegging so any help would be greatly appreciated!

Yooper... hoping you could answer this question that ThinBlueLine asked. :D Thinking about brewing this one for me next batch. Thanks for converting it over to Extract brew.

Adding the DME... do you just dump it in during the boil? I'm still in the LME stage and have yet to dump in any DME.

Thanks!

Gary

EDIT: I was a doofus and read right past where this (in bold) was answered in the initial recipie. LOL... sorry!
 
I have all ingredients except caramel 80. Any substitute for that? Special b, aromatic, amber malt or any others? Want to brew it tomorrow morning
 
Made this today on my Kal clone Electric Brewery. Only change was just a little on the same hops to get to the same IBU. Did not have the flame out addition and will do whole hops for dry hopping and not pellets.

Barry
 

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