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Old 03-07-2011, 04:40 AM   #31
LakewoodBrew
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruin_ale View Post
the e-bay china ones get to me in a week, I was surprised when that showed up before alot of the other stuff I ordered that didn't have to cross the Pacific
Yeah, great price too. The Crydom equivalent is an order or magnitude more expensive, and works exactly the same (actually the china specials have a little light on them that tell you when they are on, Crydom does not.)

 
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Old 03-07-2011, 01:10 PM   #32
wilserbrewer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatrickwah View Post
I just hope the 1000w or 1500w element can get the 10 gallon batch to boil in a decent amount of time.
1000w or 1500w will not boil ten gallons, you will need 3-4000w. If you are going 120v, I would suggest 2, 20 amp circuits driving 2000w each.

 
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:57 PM   #33
hatrickwah
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Maybe I should have just lead with the question, can it boil the beer. Would have saved lots of time. I won't bother with two elements, especially since I plan on going to 220v anyway. Just now I have more of a reason to push the wife into it.
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Old 03-07-2011, 06:04 PM   #34
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haha, sounds like you're coming around. 220V is probably mandatory for 10G. 1500W is probably a struggle to boil 5G without a ton of insulation.

 
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:14 PM   #35
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Just a side comment about the suggestion to try and obtain 240V by tapping two separate 120V circuits that are derived from opposite hot lines in the panel...

If you are using GFCI to protect yourself (and you really should be doing this), then that suggestion will get you nowhere. As soon as you fire up the thing, the GFCI circuitry on those 120V circuits will not be happy and will shut down the system.
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