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Old 11-05-2012, 03:51 AM   #2351
bbriscoe
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Sep 2007
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So I built the mash tun with a 5 gallon cooler a couple years ago and now I need a bigger one. HD has them for $45. Does anyone have a 10 gal for cheaper?
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I've brewed: Oktoberfest, Alaskan Smoked Porter, Rochefort 10 trappist, "Reverend Desmond" trappist, DFH 90 clone, Sam Smith Oatmeal stout,Fat Tire Amber, Dave's Double Dog IPA, Leffe Blonde CLone (didn't work).

What I want to brew (so I don't forget): Fullers London Porter, "Desiree's" Cream Ale, Grimbergen red, SA Imperial Double Bock, Marshalls IPA, MacEwan's Scotch Ale

 
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:25 AM   #2352
shtyler71
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Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbriscoe
So I built the mash tun with a 5 gallon cooler a couple years ago and now I need a bigger one. HD has them for $45. Does anyone have a 10 gal for cheaper?
Look on craigslist i just found one for 15.00

 
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:52 PM   #2353
CGVT
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If you are patient you can find deals.

I bought my 10 gallon Igloo at a garage sale for a buck. It's beat up and ugly, but it did the job. I ended up getting a second when my local Lowe's put the 10 gal Rubbermade coolers on sale for $28. I really didn't need it, but couldn't pass up the price...
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:27 PM   #2354
LeverTime
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Apr 2010
Philadelphia, PA
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Pretend you are an idiot, who attached the inner barb to the nipple before putting the washer on. How do you get the darn thing off? You can put a wrench around the barb, but the nipple has nothing on it to attach a wrench to.

I, of course, am a genius, and did not do this, it's all purely hypothetical.

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Old 11-05-2012, 11:02 PM   #2355
agreenmartian
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Oct 2012
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Originally Posted by LeverTime View Post
Pretend you are an idiot, who attached the inner barb to the nipple before putting the washer on. How do you get the darn thing off? You can put a wrench around the barb, but the nipple has nothing on it to attach a wrench to.

I, of course, am a genius, and did not do this, it's all purely hypothetical.
Maybe one of those rubber Strapwrench dealies? Or you can get pliers with rubber jaw covers that won't tear up the brass.

 
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Old 11-06-2012, 04:28 AM   #2356
sarajevskopivo
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Oct 2012
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Thanks to you guys I was able to make it.

Inside (1) stainless steal washer I get at fastenal. I saw them at Menards as well.
3 washers that come outside (these are not stainless steal) and they fit over the middle part I found at ACE.

I hope this might be useful.

 
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Old 11-12-2012, 01:15 AM   #2357
bbriscoe
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Sep 2007
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It seems that most all grain recipes are written for a 3 stage enclosed tank system with hoses and pumps supplying the water transfer between the tanks. When using this mash tun methods, I seem to have a much greater temp loss from my HLT on the stove to mash tun - probably since I tranfer the water 1 quart at a time in a pyrex jar and pour it into the top of the cooler tun, then stir it up with the lid open.

If the recipe says to mash at 150, then online calculators say I need 163 degree water for 15 lbs grain. This gives me a mash much colder than 150. So has anyone figured out what the actual temp differential needs to be from the strike water to the mash?
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I've brewed: Oktoberfest, Alaskan Smoked Porter, Rochefort 10 trappist, "Reverend Desmond" trappist, DFH 90 clone, Sam Smith Oatmeal stout,Fat Tire Amber, Dave's Double Dog IPA, Leffe Blonde CLone (didn't work).

What I want to brew (so I don't forget): Fullers London Porter, "Desiree's" Cream Ale, Grimbergen red, SA Imperial Double Bock, Marshalls IPA, MacEwan's Scotch Ale

 
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Old 11-12-2012, 02:02 AM   #2358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbriscoe View Post
It seems that most all grain recipes are written for a 3 stage enclosed tank system with hoses and pumps supplying the water transfer between the tanks. When using this mash tun methods, I seem to have a much greater temp loss from my HLT on the stove to mash tun - probably since I tranfer the water 1 quart at a time in a pyrex jar and pour it into the top of the cooler tun, then stir it up with the lid open.

If the recipe says to mash at 150, then online calculators say I need 163 degree water for 15 lbs grain. This gives me a mash much colder than 150. So has anyone figured out what the actual temp differential needs to be from the strike water to the mash?
This probably belongs in a new thread. I don't believe that most all-grain recipes are written for a 3 vessel recirculating system. Yes, some recipes have multiple stage rests, but single infusion rests are also very prevalant and used in many craft breweries. Recipes calling for multiple stage rests can be converted to a single infusion rest, usually with very similar results.

Regarding your issue of temperature loss and strike water calculation, I find the calculation used in the beersmith software to be fairly accurate. Adding water one quart at a time seems tedious and probably leads to the temperature swings you're experiencing. If you're mashing at 1.25 quarts of water per pound of grain, then you should heat 18.75 quarts to the correct temperature and add your grain to the entire volume of strike water. Then, stir your grain and when you're at your desired rest temperature, close the lid to the mash tun. If you add water to the grain slowly, then the room temperature grains are going to have a greater affect on the strike water temperature; decreasing the water temperature more than if the grain were added to a larger volume of water. This is probably the reason your calculations are off (I'd also calibrate your thermometers). Every calculator I've seen assumes the grains are added to the entire strike water volume. I hope this helps.

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Old 11-12-2012, 07:00 PM   #2359
tre9er
 
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BeerSmith (I don't use it, but from reading others' accounts) has equipment profiles that should allow you to not only set the temp of the grain, but the temp of the equipment (unless it's using grain temp to figure equipment temp, too), however...

I've found that trying to hit it square on the nose the first time with no room for error is incredibly difficult and has repercussions if you don't hit the mark. I've long since started overshooting strike temps considerably, stirring the water (before adding grain) down to ABOVE the prescribed strike temp (ie. heat to 185, move water to mash tun, stir to 170 if strike temp calls for 167) and then doughing-in (adding grain) and stirring until temp drops to desired mash temp. This is simply the best way to make sure you don't undershoot it. Adding boiling water in the proper amount, quickly, to raise a mash temp is very difficult unless you keep it on hand in large quantities, already boiling. You won't denature beta amylase in the 5 minutes it takes to stir down from 157 to 154, anyways.
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:28 PM   #2360
bbriscoe
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Sep 2007
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Yeah, my problem is that I've always dumped the grain in first then added water. And yes, I've been there where the mash came in too low and I couldn't raise it so I overshot this time - maybe by too much !. I'll have to change my SOP next time. Thanks for the idea!
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I've brewed: Oktoberfest, Alaskan Smoked Porter, Rochefort 10 trappist, "Reverend Desmond" trappist, DFH 90 clone, Sam Smith Oatmeal stout,Fat Tire Amber, Dave's Double Dog IPA, Leffe Blonde CLone (didn't work).

What I want to brew (so I don't forget): Fullers London Porter, "Desiree's" Cream Ale, Grimbergen red, SA Imperial Double Bock, Marshalls IPA, MacEwan's Scotch Ale

 
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