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Old 03-06-2011, 07:39 PM   #11
TriangleIL
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Sparky,

Would what would be the correct wire to feed a panel, 60Amp, say, across the room similiar to any power cord? I assume this would be a bad idea for that type of run?

Also, isn't the 6/3 good for 60Amps under intermitten load, but under continous load shouldn't we be looking at something in the 75A (4/3) range? This is what my HD "expert" told me, but natrually who can trust the HD guys? So I'd prefer to get a better recommendation here.
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:15 PM   #12
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The 6 gage or 4 gage choice depends upon your system and loads.
I re-read the original post and it actually sounds like a build that I will be doing too (see layout below)! Two elements with the other gizmos.

If you have (2) 5500 Watt elements going at the same time:
5500/240 = ~23amps
(2) elements = 46 amps
The other equipment (pumps, lights, etc.) probably draws 4 amps.
So, lets call it all at 50 amps.
Add in the overcurrent protection...
50 amps x 120% = 60amps.

Then, there is wire type, distance of wire run, etc. For my setup, running 6 gage THWN-2 in conduit is good for 75 amps (per Table 310.16, NEC). Personally, I am going with 6 gage and a 60amp GFCI protecting the system.

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Old 03-06-2011, 08:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TriangleIL View Post
Sparky,
Would what would be the correct wire to feed a panel, 60Amp, say, across the room similiar to any power cord? I assume this would be a bad idea for that type of run?
Depends upon your room layout and if it is finished or not.
- Romex (6/3) to run through walls/ceiling. Remember that romex needs to be protected under 8'. So that means placing it behind sheetrock/plywood, etc. There is allowances for crawl spaces and attics. Romex is meant for dry areas. Romex is easier to run in dry areas that are exposed.

- Conduit (EMT, PVC, Rigid, etc.). Conduit is great for protecting the wires. Typically EMT is run in most garages, etc. Use PVC for underground use. Typically, schedule 40 PVC for complete burial and schedule 80 PVC if exposed. EMT is best for enclosed (sheetrock) utility areas if you do not want to open the walls/ceiling.

And, I would stick with 6 gage: either 6/3 romex OR (3) 6 gage + (1) 10 gage ground in pipe.

Again, DO NOT run romex in conduit!

 
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:31 PM   #14
TriangleIL
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Sparky,

From what you say, would this power cord work? I would be running it from the control box, across the floor 12 feet, and plugging it into the wall. I am doing this to make my rig, semi-portable. Would this cord work in that type of scenario? Btw, my rig is simliar to yours (2x5500W, 2 pumps, 2 aux outlets + up to 8A for valves).

Thanks for the advice!
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:52 PM   #15
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Triangle,

I will have the same set-up so thanks for the research on the cord! I would love to see your setup with the valves, etc. The 8amps for valves, seems kinda high, but I am not sure on the amp draw for valves (I thought it would be peanuts). I know the MARCH pumps are around 1.3 amps.

I think the reason why they list 55amps for STOW is that the wire is contained in a rubber jacket so it is derated from a heat standpoint. But, it looks good, nice and beefy and rated well. I would just check your total amp draw with those valves before going with it.

And, I know before someone corrects me.. I know about code requirements on running cords longer than 6', power loss, etc.

 
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Old 03-08-2011, 11:35 AM   #16
nyer
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I logged on to do a little research into going electric and found this thread. I started to think I couldn't do go electric because I wanted to be able to start 1 batch boiling while starting a second batch (now running 2 - 220 elements). It sounds like thats what you want to do. I'm no electrician but figured out I didn't have the power available. I was talking to a friend who does this stuff and he told me that we could run 10/3 from one 30 amp breaker and 10/3 from a 40 amp breaker (both breakers are already there and unused)to a spa panel into my garage and then have all the power I need. Does this sound like it should work?

Do you have a part number for the home depot spa panel?

 
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Old 03-08-2011, 12:40 PM   #17
P-J
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nyer,

GE 60 amp GFI Spa Panel from Home Depot.
BTW - you need to run #8 wire for a 40 amp circuit #10 will not get it.

 
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Old 03-08-2011, 01:27 PM   #18
petey_c
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To piggy back on what P-J said, change the 2P40 to a 2P30 if you can't run #8 to the new outlet.

 
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Old 03-08-2011, 02:13 PM   #19
nyer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petey_c View Post
To piggy back on what P-J said, change the 2P40 to a 2P30 if you can't run #8 to the new outlet.
The wire is already run to my garage from the 30amp. The 40 would need to be done still so going to 8 wouldn't be a problem except that he already has a roll of 10 gauge that he was going to give me.

What does 2P40 and 2P30 mean? 2 pull 30 amp or 40 amp breaker?

I have more questions but I will start a new thread.

 
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Old 03-08-2011, 02:32 PM   #20
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2P40 = two pole 40 amp breaker
2P30 = two pole 30 amp breaker

 
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